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Dirty Crack Boulder
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Arthritis 
Arthritis Sit 
Bloody Phalanges 
Dirty Crack 
Hemolysis - Sit Start 
Jugular 
Scabbers 
Stinger Mantis 
Wizard 

Stinger Mantis 

Hueco: V1 Font: 5

   
Type:  Boulder, 12'
Consensus:  Hueco: V1 Font: 5 [details]
FA: Sam Hayden
Season: Spring, Summer, Fall
Page Views: 372
Submitted By: freezeus on Jul 12, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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BETA PHOTO: The line you take just below the pine tree in yell...

Description 

Start on jug rail around the side to the left from Dirty crack, and to the left of arthritis,then reach up to a juggy ledge. Move you're feet up and feel around to the right, right below the pine tree for a crimp and bump to jugs at the top.
We cleaned several jugs we found under moss to the left of the tree...tree is no longer necessary to top out.

Location 

around the left side of the dirty crack boulder, the second problem around the left just past Artritis.

Protection 

one pad and a spotter


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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 14, 2011
By rogerk
Jul 15, 2011

It's a shame that this doesn't go up the mossy groove to the left of the tree, so that you could avoid the tree altogether.
By freezeus
From: Pittsfield, VT
Jul 15, 2011

Go for it...have fun...variations are welcome, expected and part of the fun of climbing!
By freezeus
From: Pittsfield, VT
Jul 17, 2011

Mossy groove is cleaned and tree is no longer part of the problem
By rogerk
Jul 18, 2011

Cool. I hope to find some time next week to get down there again.
By rogerk
Aug 23, 2011

Climbed this again today. This will be one of the best problems at its grade in VT once the moss at the topout is cleaned so that the upper holds have a chance to dry out.
By freezeus
From: Pittsfield, VT
Aug 24, 2011

Another one I have to get...I always back off at the last rail just before the jugs!!!
By rogerk
Aug 24, 2011

The move off the rail feels committing, but the jug is incredible, Once it's dry, you should definitely try it.
By freezeus
From: Pittsfield, VT
Aug 24, 2011

Tried like ten times today...can't get to the jug. tried going to the intermediate crimps out to the right but that didn't work either. I either need to bump my feet up to the start hold and deadpoint or dyno from lower feet!
By freezeus
From: Pittsfield, VT
Sep 14, 2011

Finally got it Roger!!!

Also cleaned and Sam got the traverse starting at the far left of this side of the boulder and finishing at the top out for Stinger Mantis...7 new problems this afternoon.