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DescriptionThe Southeast panhandle of Alaska is a labyrinthine landscape of massive islands, wandering straits and mysterious mainland mountain ranges. The region’s independent fishing communities are few and far between, connected by complex networks of seaborn ferries and propeller driven air fleets that give the area a frontier feel, where opportunities abound, and the stakes are high. Getting ThereHome to a robust economy based on fishing, logging, and the seasonal Cruise Ship industry, the quaint Scandinavian village of Petersburg, AK provides all the amenities and the perfect jumping-off point for an adventure on the Ice Cap. Alaska Airlines offers service to Petersburg from Seattle and other major Alaskan cities. From Petersburg, air travel to the ice cap can be arranged via TEMSCO Helicopters, Inc www.temscoair.com. Be advised air travel is extremely constrained by weather conditions. Lodging, food & cooking fuel are readily available in town, but climbing-specific equipment is not available. The local city park offers reasonably priced camping for those awaiting a “Thumb’s Up Day” for air transport. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Stikine Ice Cap:
East Ridge (via Southeast face) 5.8+ Steep Snow Snow, Alpine, 3000 feet, Grade V Devil's Thumb
Direct East Ridge 5.8+ Mod. Snow Snow, Alpine, 3000 feet, Grade V Devil's Thumb
Plumb-Stuzman (Northeast Rib of the North Face) 5.10- Steep Snow Trad, Snow, Alpine, 55 pitches, 6000 feet, Grade VI Devil's Thumb
Featured Route For Stikine Ice Cap
Direct East Ridge 5.8+ Mod. Snow AK : Southeastern Alaska/Coastal... : ... : Devil's Thumb
The Direct East Ridge is the route immortalized in Steck & Roper's "Fifty Classic Climbs of North America". Though an excellent climb, the route is anything but 'direct', as it replaces a few hundred yards of steep snow with half a day of rock climbing. The route gains the East Ridge at the lowest point at which its steep rock buttresses first protrude through the surrounding snow slopes, rather than climbing steep snow on the SE face to gain the ridge higher up.There is some confusion over th...[more] Browse More Classics in AK
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