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 ADVANCED
Eagle Falls
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Adsite Arete T 
Dobsonfly T 
Eagle Has Landed, The T,S 
El Supremo T 
Face of a Thousand Cracks T 
Fipi Lele T,TR 
Gypsy's Curse T 
Lichen or Not T 
Lloyds of Lowville T 
Naked Truth T,TR 
Promiscuous Girl S 
Ravenous T,S 
Red Book T 
Seventeen T 
Soft Maple Times T 
Stihl Water T 

Stihl Water 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
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Page Views: 201
Submitted By: Jim Lawyer on Jun 12, 2012

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Description 

Great, exposed arete climbing, and a good warmup for the harder routes here. Shorter climbers find the moves past the second bolt to be reachy (and hence more difficult).

Climb the right side of the arete past a bolt, then switch to the left side of the arete and up to a stance on the left side of a roof below a crack. Go up the crack to a horizontal, then step right to hidden jugs on the large arete. Go up the arete on good holds, then onto the left face (bolt). Go up a thin crack just right of a large corner to a fixed anchor at the top.

After the upper bolt, you can instead climb up and right to the arete and follow two more bolts to a fixed anchor on the right side of the arete. This allows you to set a TR on The Eagle Has Landed.


Location 

From the large overhang (Eagle Buttress), walk right about 100'. Begin on the right side of an arete below a bolt 12' up.


Protection 

Cams and nuts to 2" plus 2 bolts. Chains at the top.



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By Alex Mitchell
From: Utica, NY
Sep 2, 2012

Thought this route was pretty sand bagged. The notorious 5.9+ rating. I was very close to making the crux move above the second bolt but it was a little to late in the day and I was a bit to tired by the time I got the beta down. Cool route none the less.