Stiffness vs sensitivity
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Hey all, |
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I've noticed that whilst I can climb at my limit (not very hard) in moccs, for all-day climbing my feet will get tired faster in a shoe with a soft and flexible sole. Then I have to spend more effort concentrating on foot tension. |
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You are misrepresenting what Dean actually wore. You SAW a lot of mocs, because what you tyically saw was him on crack climbs, where mocs rule. No laces to grind in half, low bulk to get into thinner cracks. |
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I find that if I'm going to climb all day I need a shoe with a firmer sole as my feet get tired. I used board lasted shoes way back but I'm not sure if the make those any longer |
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I find that if I'm going to climb all day I need a shoe with a firmer sole as my feet get tired. I used board lasted shoes way back but I'm not sure if the make those any longer |
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"Stiffness and sensitivity" |
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shoes make the biggest difference in climbing .... |
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I learned to climb in mountain boots and did my hardest climbs BITD in shoes stiffer, less sensitive, and much less sticky than any of today's shoes. Sticky rubber revolutionized foot technique, making it possible to pivot on a weighted foot without causing the foot to pop off. Sticky rubber also made "smedging" a lot more effective, reducing the differences between stiff and flexible shoes. |
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Right, but those are controllable factors. I think people fixated on my example of Dean and the Moccs a bit too much and missed the point; the "right tool for the job" can mean different things to different people. A better example might be the "no edge" concept that Sportiva is pushing. Both the Futura and the Miura are edging machines in their own right, but they accomplish this in very different ways: the Futura, by being super sensitive and allowing you to feel every piece of the rock (for Better or worse), and the Miura by having a massive, thick, stiff toebox so that you can stand on dimes without feeling a thing. Barring these extreme (and brand specific) examples, many of the differences between similarly performing (and functional) shoes come down to personal preference over sensitivity and stiffness. Which do you prefer? |
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Ted Pinson wrote:Both the Futura and the Miura are edging machines in their own right, but they accomplish this in very different waysI've never heard anybody claim Futura, or any of the other no-edge models, being good at true micro-edging. These types of soles are good at rolling up on divots (especially limestone & sandstone) that allow higher foot extension than traditional soles. That being said, climbing shoes don't need to be have really stiff soles to be good at micro edging. The down-turned heel tension rand design does allow more sensitivity, and IMO much better high stepping capability, than flat shoes relying only on a stiff sole. Granted they do fatigue the feet more. |
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Fit and comfort are key factors. I have settled on "all around" shoes, shoes that have good edging power, moderate toe-down, and reasonable amount of sensitivity for steeps and bouldering. On the downside, all around shoes are not the best in anything in particular, but these days I no longer care. My current two all around shoes are Sportiva Katana Lace and Scarpa Vapor V from 2013. For me, the KL is the slightly better shoe so I use it outdoors and the Velcro VV at the gym (quick on, quick off). |
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reboot wrote: I've never heard anybody claim Futura, or any of the other no-edge models, being good at true micro-edging. These types of soles are good at rolling up on divots (especially limestone & sandstone) that allow higher foot extension than traditional soles. That being said, climbing shoes don't need to be have really stiff soles to be good at micro edging. The down-turned heel tension rand design does allow more sensitivity, and IMO much better high stepping capability, than flat shoes relying only on a stiff sole. Granted they do fatigue the feet more.http://m.outdoorgearlab.com/Climbing-Shoes-Reviews/La-Sportiva-Futura |
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Ted Pinson wrote: m.outdoorgearlab.com/Climbi…That's a lot of beating around the bush trying not to say it doesn't micro edge...What the heck is an "artificial edge"? If there is a sharp micro edge, you use it. There's no beating around the fact the no-edge concept isn't good at those types of foot holds. |