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Stiff Downturns?

Original Post
boulderbum · · NY · Joined Feb 2011 · Points: 0

Last two pairs of shoes have been the teams and blackwings. While both were great, they were just a bit too soft for me as a plus sized climber. Wore the shamans before that, which were decent at first but became floppy after a couple months. Any bigger guys out there that like stiffer shoes? Am thinking of trying the arrowheads or possibly solutions..any thoughts welcome

Tyson Miller · · Lebanon, NH · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 215

I think the stiffest downturned shoe is the Miura VS.

reboot · · . · Joined Jul 2006 · Points: 125
Tyson Miller wrote:I think the stiffest downturned shoe is the Miura VS.
IMO, the Scarpa Boostic is stiffer over the Miura VS by a country mile. Some of the other models on the stiff side are Scarpa Instinct VS, La Sportiva Katana Lace, although neither shoe is radically downturned.

That said, downturned shoes derive most of the power from a snug fit (in order to activate the tension rand) than from a stiff sole.
boulderbum · · NY · Joined Feb 2011 · Points: 0

Snug fit? I dare you to try climbing in a pair of downsized teams..lol

Vagenius hit the nail on the head...I wonder would lace ups help hold the shape better maybe? Hate the idea of fiddling with laces between goes though.

reboot · · . · Joined Jul 2006 · Points: 125
boulderbum wrote:Snug fit? I dare you to try climbing in a pair of downsized teams..lol
What's the big deal? You are just bouldering; less than a minute & it's off. Try breaking in a too-small pair of testarossa on a 5.12 slab route.

I've tried the Shaman before. In addition to Evolv having the shittiest, least durable mid-sole on the market, the heel doesn't tension the toe box like the Italian shoes do. I pretty much predicted that when the sole softens, which will happen quickly, it'll climb like shit.
boulderbum · · NY · Joined Feb 2011 · Points: 0

Not sure what your point is, a snug fit is a given... Fully aware of how to downsize, I wear 3 full sizes down from my street shoes in sportivas.
Interesting what you say about the boostics..stiffest youve tried so far? Have always wanted a pair of scarpas.

reboot · · . · Joined Jul 2006 · Points: 125

Boostic's sole is stiffer than most downturned shoes, but the rubber coverage over the toe box also make it climb stiffer than many similarly stiff soled shoes. Beware that all the models I mentioned use Vibram XS Edge, which is a very stiff rubber as well. You maybe not like how it smears (or the lack of) coming from Traxx or C4.

boulderbum · · NY · Joined Feb 2011 · Points: 0

Hmmmm...have only climbed in xs grip which I hated and found way too soft. The toes of my cobras literally disintegrated. Is edge a bit more like onyxx?

reboot · · . · Joined Jul 2006 · Points: 125
boulderbum wrote:Hmmmm...have only climbed in xs grip which I hated and found way too soft. The toes of my cobras literally disintegrated. Is edge a bit more like onyxx?
It's stiffer than Onyxx.
Alex Whitman · · Chattanooga · Joined Sep 2009 · Points: 440
reboot wrote: IMO, the Scarpa Boostic is stiffer over the Miura VS by a country mile. Some of the other models on the stiff side are Scarpa Instinct VS, La Sportiva Katana Lace, although neither shoe is radically downturned. That said, downturned shoes derive most of the power from a snug fit (in order to activate the tension rand) than from a stiff sole.
Boostic it is. And they are diesel. Mine have stayed stiff and not needed a resole longer than anything else I have ever climbed on. They just have a bit of a break in period due to the stiffness and large amounts of rubber around the toe.
Morgan Patterson · · NH · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 8,945

Testarossas are very stiff in the toe box but not the midsection... expensive but amazing shoes.

Jon Frisby · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 270

Boostics are stiffer, but my partner wears Muira VSs and I think the technology that keeps the downturn is really solid. He's a heavy sweater yet they've still retained shape. The stiffness won't be much less than the Boostics

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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