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Stiff climbing shoes for Hallux Rigidus?
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By Edubs
From Brooklyn, NY
May 23, 2014
Hey all,
I've been diagnosed with hallux limitus/ rigidus in my right big toe, and need to take some remedial measures, including getting stiffer climbing shoes. I currently wear the 5.10 huecos and find them comfortable as hell, but apparently they aren't stiff enough. Can anyone recommend a stiff, non-aggressive shoe?

Little more info: I am not a high level climber (10.d's in gym, 5.8 lead outside), and I don't do the steep stuff, so I don't need an extremely high performance shoe, nor do I need anything aggressive.

Thanks!

FLAG
By rock_fencer
From Columbia, SC
May 23, 2014
Myself placing a a blue/yellow offset MC to protect between Bolt 2/3 just post crux . <br /> <br />Picture credit goes to eric Singleton, and many thanks to Josh Bagget for the great belay.
the scarpa technos are stiff...i've heard that the TC pro's are pretty stiff as well

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By Adam B
From Wheat Ridge, CO
May 28, 2014
Middle St. Vrain
Same issue, same toe w. a bone spur. I had the TC-Pro and they didn't help the situation. I switched to the Katana Lace and I am very happy. They fit snug, but not tight. I like sportiva, and these have helped me out. Steeper climbing hurts less.

Another thing that really helps is a good insole in my approach shoes, and I put them on between climbs to let things cool off.

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By Bob A
May 30, 2014
Same issue in my left toe.I have a pair of scarpa technos and this year got the Huecos.I like the Huecos.
The key for me is stiff shoe but also sized very big.No more cramming my feet in climbing shoes as that is what I think brought it on in the first place.
TC pros look like they would be good also.
If you find something that works let me know.It seems that with climbing shoes and Hallux limitus/ Rigidus,there is no good solution.
Good luck!

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By gblauer
From Wayne, PA
May 30, 2014
I have had surgery on both big toes for the same condition.

I wear my Evolv Rockstars 1/2 size larger and my husband made me several pairs of custom, carbon fiber orthotics that fit inside my climbing shoes. I don't think I could climb without my orthotics.


Another option is to send your shoes to Yosemite Bum resole and ask them to make an extra stiff midsole. I did that, but, I prefer my orthotics.

Let me know if you need more information, I have been living with the condition for five years.

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By Marcy
From Tempe/Tuscon, AZ
May 30, 2014
the tornado
I also have hallux limitus in both toes; diagnosed in 2009 with surgery in 2010. My surgeries were mildly successful for a period, however, they created a new type of pain in the ball/sesmoid bone area of both feet, which may be worse than the original issue.

Shoe-wise, I had always worn Mythos previously and tried TC Pros for a short time. What has worked best for me has been to size my Mythos up 1/2 size and use spring steel inserts in them. The type of climbing is key for me as well. I stay away from slab (luckily never cared for it much anyway) and too much edging is problematic. To a large extent I have just gotten used to a certain baseline level of pain while I climb. I am currently looking around at other non-traditional treatments. Not climbing is not an option :)

Gblauer - I'd be interested in hearing more about your carbon fiber orthotics. My husband shaped the spring steel inserts for my shoes. We are currently playing with modifications to them for the sesmoid pain, but I certainly would not be climbing without them.

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By gblauer
From Wayne, PA
May 30, 2014
Marcy wrote:
Gblauer - I'd be interested in hearing more about your carbon fiber orthotics. My husband shaped the spring steel inserts for my shoes. We are currently playing with modifications to them for the sesmoid pain, but I certainly would not be climbing without them.


Sorry to hear about your toes. When I am not climbing I only wear rocker shoes or Dansko shoes. This is sort of a problem, because I am a professional who needs to be very well dressed. I think I am preserving my joints by wearing rocker shoes. I too had pain in the ball of my foot. Hapads really help.


hapad.com/products/longitudina... I use these in my approach shoes and in my sneakers (when I am training in gym).

My husband made me carbon fiber orthotics for my climbing shoes and my sneakers. He made two types: one that was made from a mold of my foot and some flat inserts. Both work equally well. He purchases carbon fiber and the resin and creates carbon fiber sheets. Then he cuts the orthotics and trims them to fit my shoes. I wear socks with my climbing shoes so that my sweaty feet don't slip and slide in my shoe.

The inserts generally last two to three seasons before they start to bend. I do all types of climbing; slab, thin face, steep routes etc. If I do too much slab it starts to hurt my toes. By the end of the day I can feel it in my toes (and elbow and shoulder and fingers) but after a night's rest I am good to go.

Before I had orthotics, I used metal bars in my shoes. It was like climbing with spoons in my shoes!

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By Edubs
From Brooklyn, NY
Jun 16, 2014
Hi Everyone,
Thanks for the replies! Sorry to hear other people are dealing with this, but nice to hear I'm not alone. I was thinking of doing the re-soling option mentioned by gblauer because I now have a hole in my Hueco's anyway. Has anyone tried that and had it help?

Also--how do you DIY your own carbon fiber orthodics? Was looking online and I'm not averse to paying to have someone else do it, but I'm not sure they'd fit correctly in my climbing shoes. Does anyone have any additional info, or could point me to some web resources?

Thanks again!

FLAG


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