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Martha nearing the top of P2 Sticky Revelations
This route is located on the far right side of Phophesy Wall. The first two pitch are 75ft long and are on good varnished edges (5.7, 5.8). There is a 2nd pitch variation that is to the left, which is a hand crack (trad gear) and quite fun. The final short pitch goes through a small bulge on edges to a 2 bolt anchor (5.10a).
There is also a 3rd pitch variation at 5.3 to make this a 5.8 climb. I did not climb this 3rd pitch , but it angles to the left to another set of anchors. Rap 3 times with a single rope to get down.
Draws, optional trad gear for hand crack on P2
Jared on the summit of Stick Revelations. What a ...
BETA PHOTO: Looking down on Pitch 2 from the belay station.
BETA PHOTO: The Exodus Variation 3rd pitch.
Looking down from the Exodus Variation to the 2nd ...
|Comments on Sticky Revelations
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Oct 11, 2006
This is also a classic route for the area. It's goes in 3 pitches, and don't skip the 3rd .10a pitch. It's a great finish and is protected pretty well by 3 bolts. Pitch 1 goes at 5.7, Pitch 2 at 5.8, with options for a trad var. In the big corner on the left. Which would also goes at 5.8. Then if you don't bail on the 5.3 for the final pitch, You get a stellar 5.10a pitch.
You bigger guy's take it easy on the starting flake for p3. It seems a little fragile (but doesnt all sandstone..?)
3 single rope rappels (60m) gets you too the bottom od this climb.
The exposure is sic for a sport route!!
From: Orem, UT
Nov 8, 2007
There's a variation about 7 feet to the right of this route with a separate set of anchors at the ledge for the top of the first pitch. I don't know if this is a new route or just a variation of Sticky Revelations. If felt like about a .7/8. I'm guessing that it's a variation to the first pitch of Sticky Revelations because it's such a popular route.
BTW, there are bolts all over this wall these days. It's like an outdoor multi-pitch gym.
|By darrell hodges|
From: elk ridge utah
Sep 14, 2008
There are now 3 bolted lines on the bottom pitch. I'm not sure but I think the middle one is the original line, although it felt easier than 5.7. The one on the left is a little harder with a thinner section in the middle and slightly overhanging finish. 5.7 - 5.8.
Also, I think this pitch is about 90 feet, not 70.
|By Jared R|
Nov 11, 2009
This route is really fun. I really liked the long traverse on the bolted second pitch. Way cool. The third pitch ramp is super easy and has four bolts. The last bolt is about 5 feet from the belay anchors and I don't understand why it is there. Fun Route.
The variation to the right of the first pitch is called All Decked Out and does run at about 5.8. It is also really cool.
|By Josh Triplett|
From: Bountiful, UT
Apr 9, 2012
This a great route for beginning climbers to start leading. It also has nice ledges at each set of anchors for multi-pitch beginners. There are rewards for choosing to go straight over the top (10a) on the last pitch. Several clever moves take you past the early crux and on to a feeling of real accomplishment. I felt that line however, could use one more bolt before the anchors, just to avoid a possible, if perhaps unlikely, long fall. There is also an easy 5.3 escape left and to the right a well protected 5.9.
From: saint george area
Jul 29, 2012
Trad on p2 not worth bringing gear.75-4-1-6 shallow too
|By Ryan Henderson|
From: Pleasant View, UT
Nov 6, 2012
A great route! Awesome belay ledges. Got a bit confused on the first pitch (lots of bolts on this wall not in the guide).
The third pitch was tough though! If compared to Conditional Bliss (a 5.10a on the very left end of this wall), this should be rated a 5.10b/c for sure. Very crazy technical moves.
Nov 11, 2012
The first pitch has a fork after the first two bolts. Going right will get you to the base of P2. Going left is equally fun but you'll end up at the base of the trad dihedral route, or you'll have to traverse 10 feet on a small ledge to the start of pitch 2.
|By Garret Nuzzo-Jones|
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jan 11, 2013
First pitch is fun, but is practically grid bolted. Way too many variations and extra bolts, none of them better than any others. Just go straight up and ignore all the unnecessary hardware.
Second pitch is fun until it mysteriously makes a 90 degree turn to gain the anchors. Bring a couple alpine draws to reduce the monster rope drag.
It looks like there's two third pitch variations. The pitch to the left of the anchors at the top of pitch two has a bouldery start so I climbed the pitch on the right. The righthand pitch is steep with oddly angled holds but they're all real positive and the separated pillar lets you bump up high without much trouble. Didn't climb the lefthand pitch, maybe it deserves the 5.10a grade but it isn't as obvious of a line. The climb all the way at the left is the 5.3 but isn't worth your time.