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Rolling Stone Wall
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Sticky Fingers 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 400', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: John Crock
Page Views: 39
Submitted By: kurthicks on Mar 16, 2013

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Description 

Probably the best route on the Rolling Stone Wall, even though it suffers from having all ¼” bolts.

P1) Climb the green slab above to an anchor on a grassy ledge. 25M.

P2) Lead directly up off the ledge, then right on huge knobs for 50’ of unprotected 5.6 slab climbing to reach a slanting crack in a U-shaped groove. Follow bolts after the crack to a semi-hanging anchor.

P3) More steep friction climbing in water-worn grooves leads to the last anchor.

Rappel the route with 2 ropes.


Location 

Scramble up the brushy meadows just left of the Road Warrior Wall (4th class), stay on the left edge of a rib and go past several pines and a fir tree to the top of an arête (there is one 5.4 move). Continue up to a “tabletop ledge” near a large pine tree.


Protection 

At least 10 quick draws. Small rack to 3". two ropes.



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