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Sticky Fingers is an awesome finger crack makes the first pitch a must do if you climb hard 5.10 cracks. The second pitch is a hard slab and I'm sure its fun for someone. OK, the second pitch is good;it just made me whimper.
I've listed this route as simply 5.10 because I've heard different reports on the grade from different sources. I felt like the crack was around 5.10b/c and the second pitch was hard 5.10d. However from that you may gather that I love finger cracks and don't do as well on hard slab climbs. So basically make sure you are a SOLID 5.10 climber.
Pitch 1: Climb the perfect finger crack as it heads up and right. There are a few thin cruxes along the way till you gain a pod of sorts where you can rest and then continue to a ledge on the right edge of the buttress. Fixed belay but you might want to back it up.
Pitch 2: Climb out left and clip a bolt. Then make challenging slabby moves left to a good stance (crux #1). Easier mantels get you to another bolt (I don't like the placement of this bolt because it could cause a bad swing for your second). After clipping the second bolt make a few though moves up and right to gain the third bolt (thank god). From here friction straight up making a really hard move to OK holds (crux #2) and better holds as you drag yourself on to the ledge.
One 60m rope stretcher rappel will get you back to the ground.
Just right of Slow and Easy 5.8, it is the right angling thin crack.
Pitch 1: This pitch eats up nuts and small cams. Don't bother with hand sized stuff.
Pitch 2: All you need is 3 draws.
Brian reaching for the next lock, praying that its...
pitch 2 is insecure at best...
what a great pitch... nice job brian...
Nick styling through the middle of the business
|Comments on Sticky Fingers
From: Lebanon, NH
Sep 30, 2013
TRed this yesterday. The first bolt and second hanger got smashed in the summer rock fall. Also, a head-sized block came off the first pitch at the end of the crack, but I don't think it changes the character or difficulty.
Anyway, what a spectacular route! The crack was awesome. The slab was also awesome - I was shocked that it actually goes.
|By Casey Bald|
Oct 12, 2007
from the top of the second pitch you can keep going up via Raven Crack at stiff 5.9, its the obvious corner system with a fixed nut at about halfway.
|By Jay Knower|
From: Plymouth, NH
Jul 5, 2010
I didn't find a fixed anchor at the top of the finger crack, as this description suggests. Instead of taking a left and climbing the hard slab, I headed up past the blocks into a chimney/groove feature. This took me straight to the bolt anchors on top of the second pitch. A #3 Camalot would work well to protect the move getting into the groove.
I liked this variation because it avoided the slab and took me to the bolted belay in one pitch.
|By Andrew Mertens|
From: Hanover, NH
Aug 20, 2010
There's a fixed anchor at the top of the first pitch as of today, but it's a old piton and a fixed nut with two non-lockers, so it's probably a good idea to climb to the second pitch anchors by way of the easy corner even if you just want to climb the first pitch.