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 ADVANCED
Squat Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Branded T 
Casual Corner T 
Elusive Wapiti T,S 
Flamingo Road T,S 
Higher Education S 
Jelly Omelet S 
Kirk's Corner T 
Lichen or Not T 
Misfit Kids T 
Miss Conception T 
Sex Favor TR 
Slimy Slit T 
Smut Puppy S 
Sticky Fingers T 
Temporary Clemency T,S,TR 
Urban Development T 

Sticky Fingers 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 489
Submitted By: Darrin Stein on Jan 1, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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A short climb with the hardest move on somewhat bl...

Closed (private property)

Description 

Just to the right of Slimy Slit is another great hand crack with a little flair in the middle. The first crack peters out and a very old, single bolt appears. If not clipped, moving past this and falling should not produce a ground fall with an attentive belayer and proper protection. However, the ride will be a bit scary. Many have taken a step right and used the crack route, Peter's Out, then back to avoid the bolt. Make it past the bolt to a flared crack that will then move to a short hand section. Continue and use the same anchors as for Slimy Slit.

Protection 

A medium rack with one quick draw for the single bolt (VERY OLD BOLT....BE CAREFUL)


Photos of Sticky Fingers Slideshow Add Photo
Past the 5.8+ crux move on Sticky Fingers.
Past the 5.8+ crux move on Sticky Fingers.
Just above the crux 8+ moves at the bolt.  Stemming through this section eases the dificulties.
Just above the crux 8+ moves at the bolt. Stemmin...

Comments on Sticky Fingers Add Comment
Show which comments
By Anonymous Coward
Mar 11, 2004

Gear Alert
The old bolt has been replaced! Enjoy!
By TBD
Apr 18, 2004
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Thanks for the rebolt. A very fun climb.
By Jeff Gustafson
Oct 11, 2004

Wow what a route... I find this one to be easier than Slimey Slit, once you get the crux wired. I won't say how, but this route seems to be a little height dependant. The finger crack on the upper portion is sweet!