|Closed (private property)|
Just to the right of Slimy Slit is another great hand crack with a little flair in the middle. The first crack peters out and a very old, single bolt appears. If not clipped, moving past this and falling should not produce a ground fall with an attentive belayer and proper protection. However, the ride will be a bit scary. Many have taken a step right and used the crack route, Peter's Out, then back to avoid the bolt. Make it past the bolt to a flared crack that will then move to a short hand section. Continue and use the same anchors as for Slimy Slit.
A medium rack with one quick draw for the single bolt (VERY OLD BOLT....BE CAREFUL)
Past the 5.8+ crux move on Sticky Fingers.
Just above the crux 8+ moves at the bolt. Stemmin...
Apr 18, 2004
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Thanks for the rebolt. A very fun climb.
|By Jeff Gustafson|
Oct 11, 2004
Wow what a route... I find this one to be easier than Slimey Slit, once you get the crux wired. I won't say how, but this route seems to be a little height dependant. The finger crack on the upper portion is sweet!