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Sticky Fingers 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 475
Submitted By: Darrin Stein on Jan 1, 2001
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A short climb with the hardest move on somewhat bl...
Closed (private property)

Description 

Just to the right of Slimy Slit is another great hand crack with a little flair in the middle. The first crack peters out and a very old, single bolt appears. If not clipped, moving past this and falling should not produce a ground fall with an attentive belayer and proper protection. However, the ride will be a bit scary. Many have taken a step right and used the crack route, Peter's Out, then back to avoid the bolt. Make it past the bolt to a flared crack that will then move to a short hand section. Continue and use the same anchors as for Slimy Slit.


Protection 

A medium rack with one quick draw for the single bolt (VERY OLD BOLT....BE CAREFUL)



Photos of Sticky Fingers Slideshow Add Photo
Past the 5.8+ crux move on Sticky Fingers.
Past the 5.8+ crux move on Sticky Fingers.
Just above the crux 8+ moves at the bolt.  Stemming through this section eases the dificulties.
Just above the crux 8+ moves at the bolt. Stemmin...
Comments on Sticky Fingers Add Comment
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By Anonymous Coward
Mar 11, 2004

Gear Alert

The old bolt has been replaced! Enjoy!

By TBD
Apr 18, 2004
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

Thanks for the rebolt. A very fun climb.

By Jeff Gustafson
Oct 11, 2004

Wow what a route... I find this one to be easier than Slimey Slit, once you get the crux wired. I won't say how, but this route seems to be a little height dependant. The finger crack on the upper portion is sweet!