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Redgarden - S Buttress
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Pseudo Sidetrack, Direct Finish 
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Shades of Gray 
Sticky Feet 
To Night 
Trinity Cracks 
Vaporizer, The 
Variation to Lower Meadows 
Walk the Talk 
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Whittle Wall, The 
Whittle Whisk 

Sticky Feet 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a R

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 400'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Harrison, Meyers, 1981
Fixed Hardware: 1 Lead Bolt [details]
Page Views: 211
Submitted By: Guy H. on May 21, 2011
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Starting the crux on Sticky Feet. This guy pulled...
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  • Description 

    Sticky Feet is located just to the right of The Bulge and sees very little traffic. The climbing is adventurous and requires a bit of route finding for the onsight. The climbing on the crux pitch is well protected, but the first pitch has some big runouts on ~5.7 climbing. It is a slight step up from Shades of Gray with a similar style of climbing.

    P1: Head straight up with multiple 5.8 cruxes through overlaps. All of the crux moves have "sticky feet". You will pass a rotten chickenhead on the left about halfway up the pitch. There is a 25 foot runout on 5.7 climbing near the top of the pitch. Belay on the right side of the scoop (5.8, 5.7R/X, 100 feet).

    P2: Angle left through the overhanging wall and pull the lip at a huge bucket. Continue up well-protected rock to a bolt to where the angle eases with runout 5.5 climbing (5.9, 100 feet).

    P3: Angle right to easy 5th class to the walk-off (5.4, 150 feet).

    The first two pitches can be combined with a 60/70m rope, but you will need a triple set of finger-size cams.


    Location 

    Sticky Feet starts about half up the scramble to The Bulge Wall.


    Protection 

    Gear to #3, with extra finger-size cams for overlaps.



    Photos of Sticky Feet Slideshow Add Photo
    One party on P3 of the Bulge and Sticky Feet lower to the right.... Starting the 2nd pitch.
    One party on P3 of the Bulge and Sticky Feet lower...
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