Sticky Feet 5.9 R
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| Type: | Trad, 3 pitches, 400 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.9 [details] |
| FA: | Harrison, Meyers, 1981 |
| Fixed Hardware: | 1 Lead Bolt [details] |
| Submitted By: | Guy H. on May 21, 2011 |
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Starting the crux on Sticky Feet. This guy pulled...
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2013 Raptor Nesting Closure in effect - NOW LIFTED MORE INFO >>>
As of Feb. 1, 2013, a seasonal wildlife closure is in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyon’s falcons.
The closure starts Feb. 1 through July 31, or until further notice and includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/press.asp?PressId=8152
From an Eldorado Canyon tweet, the Redgarden Wall closures were lifted May 6, 2013.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
Action Committee for Eldorado
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Description Sticky Feet is located just to the right of The Bulge and sees very little traffic. The climbing is adventurous and requires a bit of route finding for the onsight. The climbing on the crux pitch is well protected, but the first pitch has some big runouts on ~5.7 climbing. It is a slight step up from Shades of Gray with a similar style of climbing.
P1: Head straight up with multiple 5.8 cruxes through overlaps. All of the crux moves have "sticky feet". You will pass a rotten chickenhead on the left about halfway up the pitch. There is a 25 foot runout on 5.7 climbing near the top of the pitch. Belay on the right side of the scoop (5.8, 5.7R/X, 100 feet).
P2: Angle left through the overhanging wall and pull the lip at a huge bucket. Continue up well-protected rock to a bolt to where the angle eases with runout 5.5 climbing (5.9, 100 feet).
P3: Angle right to easy 5th class to the walk-off (5.4, 150 feet).
The first two pitches can be combined with a 60/70m rope, but you will need a triple set of finger-size cams.
Location Sticky Feet starts about half up the scramble to The Bulge Wall.
Protection Gear to #3, with extra finger-size cams for overlaps.
One party on P3 of the Bulge and Sticky Feet lower...
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