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Tremont Mountain
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Nomad's Land T 
Stickin' it to the Man T 
West Face Buttress 1 T 

Stickin' it to the Man 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 140'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Grog & Unk (11,000 B.C.)
Season: Spring, summer, fall
Page Views: 660
Submitted By: J. Fox on Mar 4, 2009

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BETA PHOTO: Mike making the crux move through dirty gully belo...
  • State Park; Fee Required MORE INFO >>>
  • State Park; Fee Required. MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    This route, while not evidently on Tremont Mountain, rests just above Kriley Pond off of CO-46 within the park. The approach is literally only ~3 minutes from the parking lot.

    Climb ledges and then into a dirty gully that holds lots of bushes and old beer cans, scramble up a 4th class or maybe low 5th move to the base of the route.

    From here you'll be able to see the bolts down low to your right. Climb the nice crack up out of the gulley and to the right of a huge pinnacle/flake. The crack here gets better, steeper, but is filled with grass and dirt. Bring your pruning shears! You'll have steep slab to your right w/o much for the feet. It can be run out if you can't clean all the grass for your cams from the crack.

    Near the top of this section, the crack bends to nearly horizontal to your right but(!), here you have two more options (I went right on gear to keep the route easy for me), you can either go straight up the slab and clip bolts, or climb the crack above you which looked in the .10+ category to me on gear, or climb this crack and clip the bolts...yeah, it's a nice crack with bolts! D'oh!

    I went right and turned into an alcove. Belay from here as rope drag will make it impossible to continue.

    P2: From the belay climb up and out an offwidth chimney for 15' onto easier ground, broken ledges. Walk off to the east.


    Location 

    I don't know the name of this formation, but it's right above the parking lot for Kriley Pond and below Son of Ralston.


    Protection 

    Standard rack, nothing bigger than a #3 C4 is what I used. Or, you can just bring draws and clip bolts!



    Photos of Stickin' it to the Man Slideshow Add Photo
    Nice crack for gear, or climb the face with bolts.  Green line in topo shot.
    BETA PHOTO: Nice crack for gear, or climb the face with bolts....
    Yellow line is the 4th/low-5th class gully.  Belay at black circle.  Red line is P1 for the 5.6 variation.  Blue line is P2 for the 5.6 variation (dashed where hidden).  Green line is the sexy finger/hand crack variation, probably .10+ and black X's are the bolt locations for this section.  <em>There is also one bolt low on the route to the right of the red line</em>.
    BETA PHOTO: Yellow line is the 4th/low-5th class gully. Belay...
    Dirty gully below route.
    BETA PHOTO: Dirty gully below route.
    Myself just below the fun part of the route.
    Myself just below the fun part of the route.
    Comments on Stickin' it to the Man Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By J. Fox
    From: Black Hawk, CO
    Mar 9, 2009

    I live ~2 miles from this rock. I've driven by it every day for over four years. I've wanted to climb it ever since seeing it. I finally did. However, I have no idea what this rock is called, and I don't believe its in any database anywhere. The closest I've come is the Falcon Guide #23 Lyons Area Climbs. This formation though is not listed in that guide, only Ralston Roost and Son of Ralston above it.

    There is a bolted line variation to the path I chose, so someone out there knows it and maybe even named it themselves. I called my route/variation "Stickin it to the Man" as a reference to my partner and I being issued a $50 ticket for parking in front of the Harmsen ranch the day we climbed this.

    If anyone knows who bolted this rock and/or knows the name of this rock or even if my line is a route, please let me know!