Stick to your Guns 5.12a
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 45 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.12- [details] |
| FA: | T. Goss, D. Biniaz |
| Season: | Fall, Winter |
| Submitted By: | Chuck on Aug 24, 2006 |
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The crux
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Description This route starts under a 15' long roof. Use the crack around the left corner for your hands. At the third bolt drop down under the roof. The holds here have been cemented to keep them from breaking off. The crux is from here to the next bolt. follow the arete up to a 2 chain anchor.
Location About 100 yard from west end of gap on south facing wall. This route in immediately right of Hair Today Gone Tomorrow. It is the most obvious roof with three bolts under the roof.
Protection Five draws plus anchor
Fixed Bolts. 2 Chain anchor
Passing the crux
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Robear on the first moves
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View from the start looking out the climb.
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Jeremy Steck on Stick to Your Guns.
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Hayden crushing the 12b crux
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| Comments on Stick to your Guns |
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By Gaar
From: Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
Dec 11, 2007
| This is not a project...The roof is very easy, and contrived....the crux is turning the lip. |
By ZachBradford
Mar 18, 2009
rating: 5.12-
| The route is named "Stick to your Guns"
FA: T. Goss, D. Biniaz
Goss Guide Book gives it a 12c. |
By Jeremy Steck
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Mar 7, 2010
rating: 5.12b
| This route is very fun, regardless of the grade or glued holds. It might be a good idea to anchor the belayer to prevent a possible ground fall if the climber was to fall when turning the lip or fumbling the clip above the lip. |
By Spencer Weiler
From: SLC, UT
Mar 7, 2011
| 12a seems about right for this climb. I felt is was easier then sandstoner reverse though, so could be 11d. 12c is very generous. Super fun climb. |
By jeffozozo
From: huntsville, utah
Mar 30, 2011
| Any beta on how to turn the lip? what are the holds like above the lip? Where should you clip from once you come around it? |
By ZachBradford
Mar 31, 2011
rating: 5.12-
| Beta at lip is the crux toss to a deep 2-3 finger pocket. Then proceed up the face on the best holds you can find. They are better to the left of the bolt line if I remember correctly. |
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