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 ADVANCED
(05) The Transition Zone
Routes Sorted
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Doggie Go Roof 
Factory Direct 
Have Slab Will Travel 
Pocket Princess 
Rode Hard 
Stick To Stucco 
Wavy Gravy 

Stick To Stucco 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Deborah Evans, Steven Hofmeyr, and Bernard Moret
Page Views: 436
Submitted By: Anthony Stout on Nov 6, 2006
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Description 

This route is 15 feet to the right of Wavy Gravy, and the first route on the wall. The start is bulging and climbs a narrow grey slab to the left of the bolts, and you eventually find yourself right of the bolts. Pass between two small bushes higher up. Smearing and friction. Nice Route!


Protection 

5 bolts to anchors.



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By LeeAB
Administrator
From: ABQ, NM
Apr 27, 2009

good climb though you never reall climb the bolt line. Start out left of the bolts then move to the right. Follow the crack to the right then step left again to a flake at the anchor.

By Paul Davidson
Apr 28, 2009

This is a fun route with some good variations.

1. The short hand crack right of the start makes for nice jams(~9). Join Stucco above the 3rd bolt.

2. At second bolt, move right of the bolt, up the small nose and then onto the ledge up and right of the third bolt. Not sure I'd recommend this over the direct version but it is a harder lead with some good slab climbing.

Us old farts also like to take a 1/2 - 3/4 sized TCU and plug it up in the crack between 4th and 5th bolts.

By Robin
From: Albuquerque, NM
Jul 27, 2009

A very good route. For someone like me (not comfortable on these low angle routes) it is an excellent mental exercise.