The start of this route is marked by a bolt with a homemade hanger just above a varnished overhang. This climb is just to the right of The route's "Is it Soup yet?" and "Chicken soup for the soul".Mantle to a stance above the overhang, then move right towards the second bolt. Apparently there is a spot for a cam in between the bolts, but it is not critical as the climbing between the 2 bolts is very moderate.
2QD's, 1 cam #2-2.5
From: Las Vegas, NV
Nov 22, 2006
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a
One move wonder route right at the start; I would recommend the cam placement between the 1st and 2nd bolts however as one mistake and it would be nasty; not to mention the cam fits in the pocket perfectly!
|By SexPanther aka Kiedis|
Mar 2, 2007
Be solid at the grade; like most gear routes on this cliff, a hard fall might pull the whole climb down. Don't fall off the top of this one, the "musical flake" up there groans like my grandma when she hears rap music. Worth a tick and not much else.