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> Castle Rock
Stevensons Need Not Apply
5.10d YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 21 ZA E3 5b British
Avg: 2 from 1
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Routes in Castle Rock
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Castle Ridge/Castle Rock Arete T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b X |
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Stevensons Need Not Apply TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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| Type: | TR, 30 ft (9 m) |
| FA: | Aron and Brian Quiter, September 8, 2002 |
| Page Views: | 1,504 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | Melissa Moore on Sep 7, 2002 |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Falcon Nesting Closure at Castle Rock
Details
Castle Rock in Pine Canyon is closed for peregrine falcon nesting season, from February 1 through July 31st every year. All other Mount Diablo area crags are open to climbing. The news release is linked here parks.ca.gov/NewsRelease/493.
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure February 1-July 31st
Details
Castle Rock in Pine Canyon is closed for peregrine falcon nesting season, from February 1 through July 31st. All other Mount Diablo area crags are open to climbing. The news release is linked hereparks.ca.gov/NewsRelease/493.
Description
This route ascends the northeast arete of the prominent pillar on the northeast side of Castle Rock proper.
While setting up a toprope is a pain in butt, this crux section of this climb involves some interesting footwork that makes it worth the effort.
To start head up the arete using the more-formed sandstone on the right face, but occasionally using a softer foot around the corner. Work up to the undercling set about 20 feet off the ground, and then keep to the arete to the top.
There is a possible variation that would head up and right from the undercling, avoiding the arete but moving up a slopey bulge using small chips that give traction in the soft sandstone of the bulge.
I believe that the face just to the right of this climb was an existing route, but there was a small dead shrub at the top of this route that literally melted when I touched it, and also a small sized block that appeared to be a hold that pulled out, leaving a good sidepull hold.
While setting up a toprope is a pain in butt, this crux section of this climb involves some interesting footwork that makes it worth the effort.
To start head up the arete using the more-formed sandstone on the right face, but occasionally using a softer foot around the corner. Work up to the undercling set about 20 feet off the ground, and then keep to the arete to the top.
There is a possible variation that would head up and right from the undercling, avoiding the arete but moving up a slopey bulge using small chips that give traction in the soft sandstone of the bulge.
I believe that the face just to the right of this climb was an existing route, but there was a small dead shrub at the top of this route that literally melted when I touched it, and also a small sized block that appeared to be a hold that pulled out, leaving a good sidepull hold.
Protection
Setting up a toprope for this route can be a pain in the butt. Use a huge sling and run it around the rock just behind the pillar on which the climb stands. Take another long sling and run it over the gap and over the pillar itself to the Northeast side, ensuring that the final locking beaner sits over the arete where the climb resides.
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