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Castle Rock
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Stevensons Need Not Apply TR 

Stevensons Need Not Apply 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  TR, 1 pitch, 30'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Aron and Brian Quiter, September 8, 2002
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 328
Submitted By: Melissa Moore on Sep 8, 2002

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Description 

This route ascends the northeast arete of the prominent pillar on the northeast side of Castle Rock proper.

While setting up a toprope is a pain in butt, this crux section of this climb involves some interesting footwork that makes it worth the effort.

To start head up the arete using the more-formed sandstone on the right face, but occasionally using a softer foot around the corner. Work up to the undercling set about 20 feet off the ground, and then keep to the arete to the top.

There is a possible variation that would head up and right from the undercling, avoiding the arete but moving up a slopey bulge using small chips that give traction in the soft sandstone of the bulge.

I believe that the face just to the right of this climb was an existing route, but there was a small dead shrub at the top of this route that literally melted when I touched it, and also a small sized block that appeared to be a hold that pulled out, leaving a good sidepull hold.


Protection 

Setting up a toprope for this route can be a pain in the butt. Use a huge sling and run it around the rock just behind the pillar on which the climb stands. Take another long sling and run it over the gap and over the pillar itself to the Northeast side, ensuring that the final locking beaner sits over the arete where the climb resides.



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