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Midnight Rock
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Black Widow T 
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Stevens Pass Motel 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Peter Croft, 1984
Page Views: 455
Submitted By: Jesse James on Sep 18, 2011

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Description 

Easy climbing leads to a roof at 20 feet (possible 2" piece). After this, challenging moves take you through the roof, and past a short face section protected by 2 bolts to reach the splitter finger crack in a right facing corner. The crack gets harder the higher you go as the pump builds, the crack gets worse, and the angle gets steeper. At the end of the dihedral, I believe the route breaks left, or perhaps the original line goes straight up a seam and then some face moves to reach the belay ledge and bolted anchor (looks hard/scary). It also looks like a nice variation might climb the face holds to the right of the aforementioned seam, but would probably need a few bolts to be added (or maybe someone has already led this as is???). This seems like it would make the best finish, and make a truly outstanding route even better.


Location 

This is the obvious splitter crack in a right facing dihedral at the right end of dead end ledge.


Protection 

Quickdraws and gear to 1"

The two bolts at the bottom are old buttonheads, and should probably not be trusted. In addition, the first bolt seems to be out of place as you can't reach it until you do some difficult moves over the initial roof. A fall before the first bolt would not be pretty. The best solution is probably to stickclip the bolt from the stance at the roof, or pre-hang a sling on rappell after climbing one of the nearby routes.

Due to the old bolts, and odd bolt placement, I don't think this route sees too many lead attempts. This is a shame since it is probably one of the best crack pitches in the state.



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By Drewsky
May 29, 2013

Those first two bolts could definitely stand to be R&R'd and maybe even relocated as per the above comments. When I tried this climb (6, 7, 8 years ago? Who knows!) I tried to finish via the rightward face variation thinking it wouldn't be too bad. I pumped off about 20 feet out from my last cam (and about 5 feet below the anchor!) and went big! The escape leftward after the crux works and I believe the route may have been finished straight up through the thin seam, although I can't verify that and my attempts to lead it that way were shut down by dirt. In any case, this is a great route. With the initial bolting situation rectified it might get done more, although it's still at Midnight Rock...