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> Central-E Casca…
> Leavenworth
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> Midnight Rock
Stevens Pass Motel
5.12a YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 3.8 from 4
votes
Routes in Midnight Rock
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Black Widow T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Corner Route T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Dagoba System T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13 |
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Easter Overhang T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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For Whom the Bell Tolls T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Nightingale T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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ROTC T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Sometimes a Great Notion T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Stevens Pass Motel T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Sting, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Yellow Bird T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
| FA: | Peter Croft, 1984 |
| Page Views: | 2,885 total · 19/month |
| Shared By: | Jesse James on Sep 18, 2011 |
| Admins: | Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters |
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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure: Noontime and Midnight Rock
Details
Every year, Midnight Rock and Noontime Rock are seasonally closed for Peregrine falcon nesting, April 1st through approximately July 31st, or or until the young falcons have fledged or FS staff have determined that nesting will not occur on a specific wall during this period. More info at fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DO…
Description
Easy climbing leads to a roof at 20 feet (possible 2" piece). After this, challenging moves take you through the roof, and past a short face section protected by 2 bolts to reach the splitter finger crack in a right facing corner. The crack gets harder the higher you go as the pump builds, the crack gets worse, and the angle gets steeper. At the end of the dihedral, I believe the route breaks left, or perhaps the original line goes straight up a seam and then some face moves to reach the belay ledge and bolted anchor (looks hard/scary). It also looks like a nice variation might climb the face holds to the right of the aforementioned seam, but would probably need a few bolts to be added (or maybe someone has already led this as is???). This seems like it would make the best finish, and make a truly outstanding route even better.
Location
This is the obvious splitter crack in a right facing dihedral at the right end of dead end ledge.
Protection
Quickdraws and gear to 1"
The two bolts at the bottom are old buttonheads, and should probably not be trusted. In addition, the first bolt seems to be out of place as you can't reach it until you do some difficult moves over the initial roof. A fall before the first bolt would not be pretty. The best solution is probably to stickclip the bolt from the stance at the roof, or pre-hang a sling on rappell after climbing one of the nearby routes.
Due to the old bolts, and odd bolt placement, I don't think this route sees too many lead attempts. This is a shame since it is probably one of the best crack pitches in the state.
The two bolts at the bottom are old buttonheads, and should probably not be trusted. In addition, the first bolt seems to be out of place as you can't reach it until you do some difficult moves over the initial roof. A fall before the first bolt would not be pretty. The best solution is probably to stickclip the bolt from the stance at the roof, or pre-hang a sling on rappell after climbing one of the nearby routes.
Due to the old bolts, and odd bolt placement, I don't think this route sees too many lead attempts. This is a shame since it is probably one of the best crack pitches in the state.
2 Comments