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Steve Garvey Memorial Route 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 170'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Jason Denver, Syd Howard, Jonathan Garlough
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 343
Submitted By: Jason Denver on Jun 5, 2013

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Jay on the business

Description 

Pitch 1, 5.7R 50'. Climb up the face past loose flakes up to the right side of the roof. Continue up the right facing inside corner to its top. Walk 10' left and set up belay on comfortable ledge.
Pitch 2, 5.10a, 5.8 pg-13, 80'. Climb up short slabs to a headwall. Step left and continue up and up to the first bolt in a blankish slab. Pull through crux (.10a) and continue over two more short headwalls until reaching a third one with a thin seam continuing up. Climb this and set up a gear belay. (Pitches 2&3 may be combined)
Pitch 3, 5.11b, 40'. Put in gear under the roof, reach up and clip the bolt, then go for it. A couple of insecure moves on an overhanging wall lead to a bucket hold and then the top out.


Location 

The route starts under the right side of the huge roof 20ft off the ground in the center of the cliff, just left of Layback Route. Walk off or rap down either Locals Only or Layback Route in 2 pitches.


Protection 

A standard rack to 3" should be sufficient. Both belays are on gear.



Photos of Steve Garvey Memorial Route Slideshow Add Photo
Jay sticks the crux on pitch 2
Jay sticks the crux on pitch 2
Jonathan Garlough follows through the crux
Jonathan Garlough follows through the crux
Jay almost to the belay
Jay almost to the belay
Jason Denver on his new route
Jason Denver on his new route
Some cool moves under the roof
Some cool moves under the roof
Jay getting to the crux on the third pitch
Jay getting to the crux on the third pitch
Last head wall on the second pitch
Last head wall on the second pitch
Bitten by the bug, summer of '92. We did the classic Funhouse to Upper Refuse.
Bitten by the bug, summer of '92. We did the class...
Comments on Steve Garvey Memorial Route Add Comment
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By EDGE
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 7, 2013

Nice job, Jay! That line looked stellar; wish I could have fallen off it before I left.

By Jason Denver
Jun 7, 2013

Thanks Edge. A great route in my opinion. Turned out easier and less scary than I was expecting. The name is a tribute to the man who lit the fire inside of me. Steve was my best friends uncle who took us up cathedral ledge for my first time when I was 11 and then up Whitehorse ledge the next summer. Steve passed away in August 1999 when his rope got cut in a lead fall in his then home state of alaska. The experiences i had were extraordinary and he made an indelible impression on me. His kindness, enthusiasm, and badassness was appreciated by those who knew him. After his family's memorial service for him in wolfeboro, his nephew and I sat at the top of this climb reflecting on him for a bit. This is a pretty stellar line, this one's for the Garv.

By john strand
From: southern colo
Jun 11, 2013

The great Steve garvey,, was it '97 ? i thought even before that. Badass with a smile..

By chinos
Jun 13, 2013
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 6a

A great route! It was a pleasure to follow jay up this one! The crux head wall at the top is excellent with a killer view...