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Steve Carruthers Memorial 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 160'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: 
Season: Spring, Winter, Fall
Page Views: 4,359
Submitted By: Karsten on Mar 27, 2006

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let's get physical, on SC Memorial route
photo by ...

Description 

AKA: SC Memorial, This is a spectacular climb. Your rope will be stretched getting to the anchors and your thumbs will be pumped senseless. The crack begins with hands but quickly moves to cupped hands for infinity.


Location 

The SC memorial route is located to the right of Karin's Corner and around the corner of Fatted Calf.


Protection 

Cams to #4 Camalot with extra #3.5 Camalots.
Anchors at the top.



Photos of Steve Carruthers Memorial Slideshow Add Photo
The late Steve Carruthers (1980's) passing the flexi flake to the excellent crack above.
The late Steve Carruthers (1980's) passing the fle...
If you are the first guy of the season on the SC Memorial, expect a few pounds of sand in your eyes.  It's not unlikely that your comedian partner will take a photo of the aftermath.
If you are the first guy of the season on the SC M...
The late Steve Carruthers nearing the end of Sticky Fingers (1980's)
The late Steve Carruthers nearing the end of Stick...
climbers on Karin's Corner on left and S.C. Memorial on the right.
climbers on Karin's Corner on left and S.C. Memori...
just out of the pod into the upper splitter. i thought pulling out of this pod was the crux
just out of the pod into the upper splitter. i tho...
the route... well almost all of it
the route... well almost all of it
160 ft of cups?  Epic enduro splitter.
160 ft of cups? Epic enduro splitter.
Comments on Steve Carruthers Memorial Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Nov 5, 2013
By Kole DeCou
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jan 31, 2007

My rack beta (in old Camalots): 1 #1, 2 #2s, 8-10 #3s, 2-4 #3.5s (most of the way 3.5s would be pretty crammed in, but there are a couple of wider spots.) The #1 is for the very top but you'll probably be too pumped to place it.

By camhead
From: Vandalia, Appalachia
Jan 13, 2008

Does anyone know the details behind Steve Caruthers? I know that he did quite a few hard FA's in the desert, and I assume that he is now deceased, but what else?

By brian ivins
Aug 16, 2008

Steve Carruthers was a hard climber and skier who died in a Utah backcountry avalanche.
I think it happened in Wolverine Cirque, but I'm not positive.

By Brian in SLC
Aug 16, 2008

Yep. I think they were headed up from Butler Fork in BCC to Baker Pass. Some bad terrain in there. Had a beer with Steve in a friend's kitchen the week before. I'm always reminded of him when I use the bathroom at IME (he has some photo's on the wall in there). RIP.

By Jeff Scheuerell
Nov 16, 2008

Looks soooooooooooooooooooooo good! There were a dozen people there that day and they all wanted to give it a go, next time.

By Monty
From: Golden, CO
Apr 20, 2009

did this with one 3.5 and lots of 3's... having at least two 3.5's is recomended. also a new 4 can be placed. super stellar route

By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Oct 19, 2010

I was the first guy of the year on this thing, the crack was absolutely filthy. both walls of the crack totally coated with sandy runoff. Sand in the hair, sand in the eyes, big fun. Good news for you guys is that my epic ascent scrubbed it a bit and it is good to go. What a crack!

By slim
Administrator
Oct 20, 2010
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

the first time i did this route, i was in the same boat. i remember dumping a bunch of sand right into my eyes and climbing for probably 40 feet or more with my eyes closed. i totally couldn't get the sand out, it was horrible. it is a much nicer route when it is clean, for sure.

By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Oct 22, 2010

too funny slim, I was totally there. My vision was blurry for the rest of the day from the sand and dirt in my eyes under my contacts. My partner thought this was a bit of a hoot, and snapped a photo which really captured the zeitgeist, which I just uploaded.

By Shawn Carter
Oct 10, 2013

Steve was one of my best friends. He passed away on the S.W. face of Gobblers Nob while ski touring with another friend and my brother in-law. They were crossing a small avi path which sympathetically trigger from above. He was the last across and was swept into some fairly thick aspen trees. I was so devastated that I could not even speak at his memorial at Silver Fork Lodge. If you want more information about Steve send me a pm. love

By slim
Administrator
Oct 11, 2013
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

this is definitely one of the 5 star mega routes of the desert, and a fitting tribute to a desert legend.

By Jeff Scheuerell
Nov 5, 2013

What a line! Got to do this on my last day this trip. Hiked up there for this one a few years back with a pack full of #3BDs and 4 friends but the route was being top roped the whole day by a giant party. Had to go back this trip and it was so worth it.

A few good hand jams lead to endless cups. The pods give you great rests but were also, for me, the cruxes climbing past them. I was able to keep the pump factor at bay with rests in the pods and even a no hands knee up high. Finish with good hands so save a 2.


Thanks for the history on Steve, a loss to many.