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Olympic Wall
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Steroids or Bust S 

Steroids or Bust 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: B. D'Antonio, T. Perkins
Page Views: 191
Submitted By: Alvaro Arnal on May 28, 2013

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JG getting his first dose of "Steroids".

Description 

Think all the hard climbing on Indy Pass is too techy and not powerful enough? Hop on this route and be humbled! Although just slightly overhanging from bottom to top, big interesting moves will capture your attention and keep you occupied until you pull over onto the slab below the anchors!

Start under the roof to the right of the first bolt (stick clip recommended) and yard/campus your way up and left until you can get fully established on the face. The crux begins in earnest at the second bolt; shoot for the horizontal above that turns out to be way more slopey that you'd hope, clip the third bolt and traverse directly right on the horizontal into the black streak (place a long sling on 4th bolt to reduce rope drag) until it's possible to go up and back left on jugs and to a good rest at the 5th bolt. From here, more big, powerful moves deposit you in a well-protected v-slot. Figure out how to get unstuck and roll over onto the slab to clip the anchors.


Location 

This route is located on the right side of the main Olympic Wall face, just to the left of Standing Eight Count.


Protection 

9 bolts; cold shut anchor.



Photos of Steroids or Bust Slideshow Add Photo
Al high on Steroids or Bust.
Al high on Steroids or Bust.
Trying not to get stuck in the tricky v-slot.
Trying not to get stuck in the tricky v-slot.
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