|Main Wall, left side
Climb the initial section of Japanese Gardens until you can protect the rightward entry moves with a bolt (at the chalkstone halfway up the hands section ). At this point the climb turns strenuous and technical. Once established in the corner climb through hard moves up to an obvious pin scar, from here another challenging section leads to a purely fun .11 finger crack to the chains. The second pitch has now been freed at .12d (I think), though I have never tried, so don't hold me to that.
Start as for Japanese Gardens. From the ground it is the obviously difficult looking right facing corner that trends rightward off of Japanese Gardens.
Protection is thin, but there. Everyone that I know seems to protect this testpiece a bit different. It is all there, just not the most obvious.
Jul 3, 2008
The "full" Stern Farmer (.12c/d?) is a combination of the original first and second pitches climbed in one pitch from the ground. Above the first anchor, a difficult move enters a flared chimney (standard Index f[l]are). An excellent Yellow Alien and, higher up, some fixed mank, protect the flare. An airy roof move exits the chimney; above, fixed copperheads and some good 00-0 size TCU's protect a hard (.11+) balance move above. A bolt then protects moves to the anchor. This extension/combination should not be missed!
Feb 4, 2012
In Index the locals spell sandbag s-t-e-r-n
Feb 9, 2013
Yet another variation on p1 is to move left after the anchor and reach the 2nd crux of Japanese gardens from directly below, climbing out the flake. I've heard this variation called "Sushi Farmer" and you'll want whatever gear you like on Stern, plus a hand and finger cam and a few long slings. If both of these climbs were already 4-stars, this variation is off the end of the quality scale.
P2 Stern Farmer 5.12d - A mellow finger lock and a compression move or two lead to a powerful pull establishing up into the chimney with your left shoulder and right foot. Since this crux might result in fall to the p2 belay stance, consider linking p1+p2 or lowering the belayer to a nice no-hand stance a few meters beneath the anchor. After getting into the chimney, a good fixed wire ( and later 2 fixed pins) protect tenuous flare chimney work, using knobs for feet, the hardest move is at mid height where there are no knobs and your chicken wing skills get a test. Pull out of the chimney on a jug rail ( small cam) and face climb straight left to the anchors atop p1 j. Gardens (VAR) or mantle up and right, joining p2 of batskins below the .11d crux move and finish via that pitch, which ends 10-15m directly above the anchors of p1 J gardens.
Gear P2- single set from purple c3 / grey TCU to purple camalot, and a few runners.
Oct 7, 2013
rating: 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b PG13
Specific gear for the sushi farmer ending is one #2 C4, and one green alien, and one red alien for after the crimp move at the top of JG if you like to place a piece up there.
|By Jon Nelson|
May 9, 2014
Thanks Morgan for posting that video. Amazing job on the route - beautiful!