Type: Trad, 75 ft (23 m)
FA: FFA P1: Terry Lien, Tom Michael. P2: Mike Schaeffer (as one long pitch from the ground)
Page Views: 8,823 total · 40/month
Shared By: Ryan Triplett on May 5, 2006 · Updates
Admins: Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters

You & This Route


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Warning Access Issue: Warning for the Great Northern Slab and Sonic Slab areas on the west (left) end DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Climb the initial section of Japanese Gardens until you can protect the rightward entry moves with a bolt (at the chalkstone chockstone halfway up the hands section ). At this point the climb turns strenuous and technical. Once established in the corner climb through hard moves up to an obvious pin scar, from here another challenging section leads to a purely fun .11 finger crack to the chains. The second pitch has now been freed at .12d (I think), though I have never tried, so don't hold me to that.

Location Suggest change

Start as for Japanese Gardens. From the ground it is the obviously difficult looking right facing corner that trends rightward off of Japanese Gardens.

Protection Suggest change

Protection is thin, but there. Everyone that I know seems to protect this testpiece a bit different. It is all there, just not the most obvious. Use a draw with two lockers to protect the moves transitioning into the flare, there has been multiple close calls and an injury.

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