Type: Sport, 90 ft (27 m), 2 pitches
FA: p1 - maybe TL (using the long-gone tree), p2 - JBak July '08, p1 + p2 back-to-back, Josie Wodraska, June 2012
Page Views: 3,050 total · 16/month
Shared By: jbak x on Aug 12, 2008
Admins: adrian montaƱo, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen

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Description Suggest change

This Tony Lusk project is one of the best and steepest 5.11s on the mountain. Tricky, burly, sustained.

This route can be done 2 ways...

1) Original start is down on the corner and leads up the SE face at about 11b.

Eases off after the 4th bolt. Clip one more and go around the corner to a surprisingly comfy belay stance. 2nd pitch traverses left a bit more, then heads up the spectacular, forearm-testing, overhanging arete for 45 more feet to anchor. Seems 11c done this way. This is my preferred method, but...

2) (Dr. Skye) Do the finger-tearing start of Dr. Evil and head directly onto the 2nd pitch of Blue Sky. Slightly harder and eliminates the belay.

Location Suggest change

Starts ON the corner formed by the SW and SE faces. Move right onto the SE face, go up for 5 bolts where it gets easy, traverse left around the corner to a double-bolt belay anchor on the SW face. Pitch 2 climbs up just left of the overhanging corner.

Protection Suggest change

Bolts with chain anchors.

Photos

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