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Goldmember S 
Green Monster/George of the Jungle Var. S 
Johnny Rotten S 
Mini-me S 
Not known at this time S 
Slappin the Johnson S 
Spiderman S 
Stepping Into Blue Sky S 
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Ten Years After S 
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Stepping Into Blue Sky 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: p1 - maybe TL (using the long-gone tree), p2 - JBak July '08, p1 + p2 back-to-back, Josie Wodraska, June 2012
Page Views: 1,256
Submitted By: jbak on Aug 12, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Dylan on "Dr. Sky", a combination of Dr. Evil and ...

Description 

This Tony Lusk project is one of the best and steepest 5.11s on the mountain. Tricky, burly, sustained.

This route can be done 2 ways...

1) Original start is down on the corner and leads up to SE face at about 11b.
Eases off after the 4th bolt. Clip one more and go around the corner to a surprisingly comfy belay stance. 2nd pitch traverses left a bit more, then heads up the spectacular, forearm-testing, overhanging arete for 45 more feet to anchor. Seems 11c done this way. This is my preferred method, but...

2) (Dr. Skye) Do the finger-tearing start of Dr. Evil and head directly onto the 2nd pitch of Blue Sky. Slightly harder and eliminates the belay.


Location 

Starts ON the corner formed by the SW and SE faces. Move right onto the SE face, go up for 5 bolts where it gets easy, traverse left around the corner to a double-bolt belay anchor on the SW face. Pitch 2 climbs up just left of the overhanging corner.


Protection 

Bolts with chain anchors.



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By 1Eric Rhicard
Aug 28, 2008

Did the Dr. Evil start and finished on Stepping into Blue Sky (Dr. Sky). Don't know if I could give it three stars as the start is a bit sharp and there is a big ledge in the middle. The upper arete is really good and might deserve three stars. Yeah, it deserves three stars as it is a must do if you go there. I clipped two of my longest quickdraws together for the bolt on the ledge but you could easily downclimb and unclip a shorter draw after clipping the bolt above. Great idea to link these two climbs Jbak.

By jbak
Aug 28, 2008

Sharp ? Eric you're killin me. You need to do some Windy Pt climbs (espec Beaver Wall) to recalibrate your idea of sharp. I think the combo route (Dr Sky) rocks. Every move. If this grade is your limit, you're going to NEED that rest. And, as you say, the arete is outstanding -- hats off to Tony. I can't think of a sport 5.11 I like better at the moment. Maybe I have a case of Vincitis though.

By 1Eric Rhicard
Aug 28, 2008

A "bit sharp" not sharp. To be honest I threw that in for Vince's sake as his beta uses a razor edged side pull. A more accurate term would be pointy and not that fun to pull on. But the upper arete makes the short section of less than ideal holds worth the momentary digital discomfort. If Vince hadn't been surfing all last week he might not have whined about his tips either. So to restate it; the holds are as smooth as a baby's butt and if they hurt your fingers stay off the surf board.

PS I never noticed a death block.

By jbak
Aug 28, 2008

The death block is that huge wedged block you step out on as you start the arete. It's refrigerator sized and cracked all the way around. I wouldn't want to be nearby during an earthquake. It's well-wedged and looks safe enough though.

By jbak
Jun 26, 2012

There is some doubt as to whether TL ever really red-pointed this route. In any case, I think it's great. Better than Spiderman.

By jbak
Jul 14, 2012

Josie sent both pitches (on sight) today for the first continuous ascent of the route. We found an ancient redtag at the midpoint anchor which confirms my notion that Tony never redpointed the 2nd pitch.