Type: Trad, 75 ft (23 m)
FA: Chris Graham & Dave Penny
Page Views: 870 total · 5/month
Shared By: Chris Graham on May 14, 2010
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall

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Description Suggest change

Climb the slab left of the left facing corner to a bolt which is just to the right of a small overhang. Climb past the bolt to a diagonal trending crack/overlap that takes small cams. Continue past another bolt and head left (about 15’) up the gully. There is a good cam placement on the left under a boulder. Make strenuous face moves on good holds up the black wall to the center of the roof above.Follow weakness to the left. A good cam placement (#2 or #3) protects the moves out over the roof.

  • Note: Though it looks tempting to escape out right to avoid the roof, the rock is of poor quality and is not to be trusted.

Location Suggest change

Directions: Humphrey's Ledge, North of Cathedral Ledge on West Side Road. Park on the road across from the Lady Blanche House. Walk into the woods and follow a trail up to the cliff. Hike left along the cliff band until you reach a right-facing corner where the trail drops down. Hike along the left of the cliff until you get to the last obvious climbs. Walk downhill about 300' to a clean slab with a line of bolts in the middle and two more bolts just right of a small right-facing corner. Continue up a small incline to a comfortable ledge with a couple of trees. The climb begins to the left of Old Crow and a dark left facing corner that is often wet.
Description: This is a nice, Variation to the finish of High Steppin. Good gear under the roof protects the final moves. After pulling the roof, step right and finish at the two bolt anchor for High Steppin and Old Crow.

Descent: rappel the route

Protection Suggest change

Gear: Small cams for the diagonal crack, large cams for the roof.

2 bolts and trad gear to a two bolt anchor with rings.

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