Hike in to the Sunset Flatiron and find the Northmost edge of the West side. From there Hike down the west side, to the South and follow the base of the cliff. Pass Packrat (5.7) and Disinclination (5.10) and continue down to a standing flake on the wall, some 8-12 feet off of the ground just in front of a slender pine tree which does all but hug the cliff. Above this you will see a small section of crack and then a open-book dihedal and a set of bulges.
Start at the left side of the flake and heave upa nd right across and over it to a great rest (unprotected 5.8) ther is a thank god hold on the top of the big flake, and a perch to stand in behind it. Reach up and right from the flake once standing on it and place a textbook stopper (#9 ?) and up from there a good gold Camalot (2.5 or 3 inch cam). Use opposition of the feet and goston with the hands (5.8?) above the good pro to move up and right again to more thank god holds. Follow an easy open book (5.4-) near hueco's for a while, placing crafty stoppers or some #4 or larger cams in deep solid huecos for pro. Continue up and right through some unprotected bulges (5.6) to top out. A crafty small nut can protect the top-out move.
Belay up top, on the shoulder of the rock on a threaded sling in a needle's eye, a few large nuts of tricams and/or a few large cams. There are pockets up here that hold a lot of water... keep the rope out of it.
To descend, climb to the summit via Chasing The Sun (5.4) and down climb to the East.
A few medium to large stoppers and a gold Camalot near the bottom (above the first crux) and a few smaller nuts up high, if you are crafty.
Belay from a few hand sixed cams and a threaded needle'e eye.
|By Roger Linfield|
Oct 11, 2010
When Chris Zeller and I climbed this route recently, I was able to protect the opening move by slinging the initial flake. Several standard length runners, strung together, were needed. This seemed solid, so I'd remove the "R" from the rating.
We both enjoyed the climb.