Steppin in the Slide Zone  5.11- R

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Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 170 feet Consensus:  5.11- [details] FA:  Ray Ringle, John Steiger Submitted By:  Orphaned on May 11, 2007 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Description 

pitch 1, good solid climbing to bolt and crux (5.11-) shortly after allows a non threatening swing. Continue to low angle/ledge area to belay. Escape to Crab Corner is possible here.

Although you can do it as one pitch, I'd recommend belaying mid pitch to keep the leader on R from hitting the ground (as I was witness to).

pitch 2 !!!!! stiff climbing (5.10-/10) with VERY, very hard to place pro (I got FOUR brass nuts including two #2 HB offsets) before reaching the crummy bolt (1/4" Leeper as of 1997). This is a very traditional old school lead not for the faint of heart up open territory. I would advise leading the route in the shade over direct sun.

Location 

left of Rich and Dave route, 3rd route downhill from Mean Mistreater.

Protection 

stoppers, cams to 3", and multiple brass nuts INCLUDING two #2 HB brass nuts at minimum.