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 ADVANCED
Turkey Perch
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bloody Englishman T 
Cold Turkey T 
Easy Chimney T 
Gobble Up T 
Gobbler's Cobbler, The T 
Honky Jam Ass Crack T 
Lack Crack (originally entered as Moderate 2) T,TR 
Left Handed Jew T,TR 
Liquid Acrobat T,TR 
Mark of Zorro T 
Moderate 2 (originally entered as Lack Crack) T,TR 
Moderate 1 T,TR 
Ragger Bagger T 
Reefer Madness T 
Sangaphogos aka Easy Off-Width T 
Short and Sweet 
Steppenwolf T 
Stiff Little Fingers S 
Turkey Sandwich T,TR 
Wet Turkey aka Turkey Perch Offwidth T,TR 
Wide Chimney T 

Steppenwolf 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Steve Cheyney in the early 1970s. First as a top rope and then a lead.
Page Views: 8,454
Submitted By: Matt Bauman on Apr 1, 2001

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Kevin climbing through the airy crux of Steppenwol...

Description 

This is a very cool crack on the Turkey Perch just right of Gobbler. It goes straight up hand crack that widens to fist and a 6 foot wide section that is hard. Just above this wide pod is hands that gradually get smaller to steep, shallow corner with offsize fingers (crux) that dies out at a bulge. Make reachy move to big hold to "escape" this blank section and move up to perfect hands on a less steep slab to a large tree belay (100 feet I'd guess). This is very sustained the whole way....


Protection 

Small to large cams.



Photos of Steppenwolf Slideshow Add Photo
BETA PHOTO
The lower jams are easy and with some face holds to boot. Moving out of the pod felt trickier but the crux is in the upper finger crack. (Photo by Chuck Graves)
The lower jams are easy and with some face holds t...
Good ol' Steppenwolf.
Good ol' Steppenwolf.
It's an enjoyable day.
It's an enjoyable day.
Matt Bauman leading the route.  Go bldr Matt!
Matt Bauman leading the route. Go bldr Matt!
Top.
Top.
Paul Cording topping out on Steppenwolf.
Paul Cording topping out on Steppenwolf.
Lee Rittenmeyer leading Steppenwolf.
Lee Rittenmeyer leading Steppenwolf.
Starting the wide section....
Starting the wide section....
Nathan Meader leading Steppenwolf.
Nathan Meader leading Steppenwolf.
Comments on Steppenwolf Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Mar 17, 2014
By Darin Lang
May 24, 2001

This is, IMO, the best of the routes at Turkey Perch. Sustained, varied climbing that will require about every size piece on your rack (except perhaps a Bigbro). Two distinct cruxes - the OW bulge and the off-finger crack right before the ledge. Both are solid 9, with sustained 8 the rest of the way.

By Stewart M. Green
May 20, 2003

First ascent by Steve Cheyney in the early 1970s. First as a top rope and then a lead. Very dicey pro with hexes and stoppers! Named of course for the Herman Hesse novel.

By Anonymous Coward
Oct 13, 2003

Wow. Amazing climb.Note: Watch out for a bat that lives in the off-fingers section (as of 10-11-03), just below the face climbing part.

By Larry Shaw
Jun 2, 2004
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Are there any bad routes here? Haven't found one yet. I got worked by the fingers section but stuck with it.

By Colin Coulson
Sep 7, 2004
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

There are decent anchors on top of this one- a cord and a sling from which you can top rope or rap with a 60 meter rope. This anchor is shared with Gobble Up. If rapping be careful to find the center of your rope as a 60 m cord will put your tails about 4 feet of the ground.

By Chris Dawson
From: Denver, CO
Sep 20, 2004
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Hey everyone, notice how in the picture above, the route Honky Ass Jam Crack is listed hilariously as Honky Jam Ass Crack. Oh god, that is funny.

By Andrew
From: Lakewood
Mar 29, 2006

Excellent route! The offwidth was the crux for me, although the hands section got me pretty pumped. Absolutely beautiful moves through the hands and onto the face.

By Pat W
Jun 12, 2006

Placed two #3s (Camalot) and a #4. Bring big stuff if you want to sew it up. Nice route.

By Luke Clarke
From: Golden
Jun 26, 2006

This is a great route and it may be they are all good on the south face. Second the gear recommendation for two #3s and a #4 Camalot to keep your mind easy through the wide part without back cleaning or leap frogging. I am sure some people can do without because the wide part is not the crux. I figured that came in the upper finger crack, which protects well with finger-sized cams (which finger cracks so often do).

By Jason Kaplan
From: Glenwood ,Co
Jun 11, 2007
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

This route was great! I got pretty pumped a couple times and wasn't sure if I would make it first go but I kept fighting and made it through the OW crux, the slim hands and fat fingers crux was tough too but I sturggled less there.

2 #3s, a 3.5, 4, 2 # 2s 2 #1s and that's about it, I still leapfrogged gear though.

I was sweatingh at the top, my face was so drenched I felt like I was crying or something.

By David Hodges
From: Parker, Colorado
Jun 18, 2007
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

IMHO, I think that this is a good route to gain confidence making the crux move with gear below your feet. The gear is good and the fall would be pretty clean. For the crux, I had a bomber yellow Alien and a #0.3 BD Camalot right above it. Very fun route requiring every technique in the book.

By Phil Lauffen
From: The Bubble
May 24, 2010

I felt the crux was the awfulwidth (my nemesis) and am in general very weak on it. However, I felt remarkably safe with just 2 #2s and one #3. There is a decent placement for the number 3 before the ow gets hard, and there is a bomber placement for the #2 at the crux, just reach deep in that crack.

By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Feb 26, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

High-top shoes will save the ankles some wear and tear on this one.

By Mark Wyss
From: Denver, CO
Sep 24, 2012

The OW crack section can be protected well with a 3, 4, and 5 cam.

By Jordan Hirro
From: Colorado Springs/Glenwood Spri
Mar 17, 2014

Super fun climb! The wide part is tricky but not as bad as it looks, so don't let it intimidate ya! Super stoked to get the onsight on this one, have at her!