Step Up Or Step Aside
|208 page views|
|Type: ||Trad, Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 115 feet|
|Consensus: ||5.10+ [details]|
|FA: ||Deb Thompson, George Bracksieck, Jay Detweiler, LP|
|Submitted By: ||Leo Paik on Oct 19, 2012|
This is an enticing line where the upper 3/4's of it goes free and clean at ~5.10- and the lowest part goes at ~5.10+.
Originally, we climbed this upper part from the belay for P1 of A Way To The Top. It has some nice crack moves, some nice bulge moves, but the face below the 1st overlap goes clean at 5.10 (for the left and right starts) to 10+ with a couple crux mantles. The middle start is the crux which is protected by 4 bolts drilled by hand. The left start is a bit easier and a right start is a bit fragile. The crack has a nice variety of movement. Once you finish the crack, a leftward traverse, either foot traverse or hand traverse, under a huge, detached block (don't touch it) gains you the 2 bolt anchor for a line (115') to the left and continuing left, you can the belay in the cavity (150').
This may be the best line at the Pulpit Massif.
For the adventurous, you could try that crack above, but watch out for big, loose blocks.
This is on the right side of the Second Pew of Pulpit Rock. It goes to an obvious, thin crack above a bulge ~35-40 feet up.
Bring wires and cams to a #3 Camalot, and 4 quickdraws to start.
The line during the cleaning.
Deb comes up to the higher belay.
Deb frees the line on TR. This shot is taken from...