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 ADVANCED
The Monument
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Chinese Handcuffs T 
Clipper T 
Cornucopia T 
Desert Gold T 
Handbone T 
Lizard Locks T 
Madcap Laughs, The T 
Seduction Line T 
Step Into The Squeezer T 
West Edge Lane S 

Step Into The Squeezer 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Andy Hansen & Jason Molina
New Route: Yes
Season: All
Page Views: 646
Submitted By: Andy Hansen on Feb 21, 2012

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BETA PHOTO: Step Into The Squeezer climbs up the left of the t...

Description 

To the left of Chinese Handcuffs is a twin set of cracks that lead up to an ominous off-width flare; one wide on the right and one thin on the left.

This crack route has it all- liebacking, stemming, a roof, thin hands, hands, fingers, a lot of off-width flare climbing and even a little bit of face climbing. It will test your skillzzz.

Step Into The Squeezer begins with the left crack (the direct line, the wide crack, could potentially go with larger gear and probably a little more difficult). Lieback, stem and jam your way up strenuous 5.9 territory placing pro where necessary. When the crack sort of fades and merges into the wide...step right into the squeezer. From here work your way up the flare- a few #5 Camalots work nicely here although you're able to walk a single #5 up the whole way. When the flare ends face climb to a roof. Be careful here as some sandy chockstones could let loose at any moment. At the roof, make wide stems and exit right to belay at the tree above Chinese Handcuffs. This route is considerably more strenuous than Handbone. Alternatively you could belay in the alcove directly above the route however there isn't much in the way of solid gear for an anchor.

Descent: Rap from the tree above Chinese Handcuffs


Protection 

Single Rack to #3 Camalot, 2 #5 Camalots



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