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 ADVANCED
{10} Mordor
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Angle of the Dangle T,S 
Crumbling, The S 
Dark Lord S 
Getting Your Kicks S 
Grace S 
Hellboy S 
Humbling, The S 
Meth Rage T 
Mrs. Norris S 
Route 66 S 
Slack Face S 
Step Child S 

Step Child 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 65'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Dustin Brubaker, Martin Seidenschmid ~ 7.14.07
Page Views: 2,444
Submitted By: Dustin Brubaker on May 22, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (38)
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BETA PHOTO: Stepchild topo

Description 

Approach flared vertical crack and follow up to roof. Continue, finding least resistence out right, or, opt for more exciting moves straight through roof.

Location 

At left side of Mordor alcove, between The Humbling & Grace

Protection 

Bolts & Gear to 2"


Photos of Step Child Slideshow Add Photo
Anna halfway up Step Child (TR).
Anna halfway up Step Child (TR).
Stepchild
Stepchild
Erik on TR
Erik on TR

Comments on Step Child Add Comment
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By bryans
May 27, 2009

props to the FA party for not bolting the short-lived hand crack. it also takes a #3 BD along with #2s.
By Ebb
From: Vancouver, WA
Mar 14, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

My climbing partner used a #2 cam between the 3rd and 4th bolts.
By Brent Grenfell
Apr 24, 2010
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

This is a fun route. You have positive hands the whole way up, as with everything at Ozone it's edgy and ledgie . I didn't place pro between 3rd and 4th bolts. If you get want there is a nice crack for BD #2.
Step Child 3rd to 4th bolt
Step Child 3rd to 4th bolt
By Dustin Ebel
From: Portland, OR
Feb 2, 2011
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I climbed this last fall and really enjoyed the route. I didn't end up placing any gear but really liked the feel and the movement. The traverse under the small overhang and then climbing out it was the best part. I did throw off a few small pieces of rock that were on the ledge.
By Colin Parker
Administrator
From: Idyllwild, CA
Jul 1, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Agree with the others about the quality of this one. Didn't think it needed gear anywhere. Definitely one of the better moderates at Ozone and as good as Carrots for Everyone in my opinion. No move eclipses 5.9, however, and there are plenty of rests...
By garrett eickelberg
Aug 26, 2013

overall great climbing, especially when the rest of the crag is sopping wet! i threw a #3 in the hand crack at the small runout in order to avoid hitting the deck. But in retrospect i think it was a bit of wasted energy, as the climbing to the next bolt is all solid (although there are 1-2 loose rocks in the hand crack). The crux move around the overhang felt sort of stout for a 5.10a, especially when comparing this route to others of the grade at ozone. But it could just have been my less then ideal beta and slightly damp hold up top.