Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
The Amphitheater
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Walk in the Light T 
Almost Seven (aka Golden Earring) T 
Aloof Roof T 
Breaking Rocks is Hard to Do T 
Comic Book Heros T 
Command Performance T 
Do or Dive T 
Doan's Pills T 
Excellent Adventure T 
Finger Love T 
High Wire T 
Into The Wild T 
Nuclear Crayon T 
Quaker State T 
Raise Hell T 
Shit Hook T 
Stab in the Dark T 
Step and Fetch T 
Wailing Wall T 
World War Z T 
Zombie Woof T 

Step and Fetch 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 140'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Jess Tucker - 1984
Page Views: 2,455
Submitted By: mbuntaine on Oct 26, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (24)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
In the midst of the business.

Description 

This line continues above Golden Earring and has tremendous exposure, interesting movements, and huge jugs on it way to the top. Step right at the roof and take the path of least resistance to the top of the climb. Make sure to extended any gear you have in the roof very long to avoid rope drag on the overhang. You will need to build a gear anchor above the overhanging face, and then scramble over the bulge and down to the standard Amphitheater rap station to descend.

This is a much more interesting finish to Golden Earring than the traverse out left and is highly recommended.


Location 

Climb Golden Earring in the Amphitheater, but instead of traversing left at the roof, step out and right to gain the steep face above. The climbing looks more intimidating from the ground than it actually is.

Protection 

standard NC rack -- gear placements abound.


Photos of Step and Fetch Slideshow Add Photo
Anne getting underway on Ste(e)p and Fetch
Anne getting underway on Ste(e)p and Fetch
Step & Fetch starts above Golden Earring
BETA PHOTO: Step & Fetch starts above Golden Earring
Gearin' up
Gearin' up
Dave nearing the top of the better finish to Golde...
Dave nearing the top of the better finish to Golde...

Comments on Step and Fetch Add Comment
Show which comments
By nbrown
From: western NC
Dec 5, 2009

I agree, this is the much better finish.
By William Rhyne
From: clayton, nc
Jan 30, 2012

any body think that a four foot sling right before and after the roof would clear the rope drag
By Andy Weinmann
From: Alexandria, VA
Jun 25, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Loved this route to finish Golden Earring in one big long pitch. Defintely gives the route a whole new type of variety. Had me smiling the whole way!

William - 4' slings could help there but so could being very thoughtful with your placements. I used long runners (24") throughout most of the line and placed a cam in the horizontal where you hand-traverse out over the roof (I had placed a piece lower at the roof but I back-cleaned it...good choice). Drag was minimal as I climbed S&F. My rope drag problem came at the end where you traverse left to finish S&F...I placed a piece too far right and it was killing me by the time I topped out.