Stems and Seeds 5.8+
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| Type: | Trad, 2 pitches, 100 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.9- [details] |
| FA: | McEwen and Baker; 1972 |
| Submitted By: | eMurdock on Jan 1, 2005 |
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photo by Jeff Barreth
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Description This route climbs the tall, southern (left) end of the Beaver Wall. Climb a finger crack that widens to hands through a small roof. Belay at bolts on ledge. The second pitch starts off with an off-width crack that is protected with a large cam. Good wide climbing takes you to a ledge. There are a couple variations for topping out, the easiest of which is reached by continuing farther right on lower angled rock. Straight up thin cracks is better. Descend from anchors on top of Highlander (to the left on top of tower) or it possible to walk off.
Protection Standard rack to 4"
<3
Photo:Caleb A.
Climber:Derek A.
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Strenuous exit moves out of the corner. The off w...
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| Comments on Stems and Seeds |
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By Gary Sax
May 26, 2004
| This is the hardest 5.8 I've ever done! |
By kBobby
From: Spokane, WA
Jan 2, 2005
rating: 5.9
| I concur with Gary. This route is easily a full grade harder than Jambrosia, which is a 5.8 of similar style (stemming and jamming) and identical rock type.
We didn't do the offwidth second pitch, instead opting out on Alley Oop, 5.7, to the right. This was completely unexciting. I think a better option if you want to avoid the offwidth is to just do pitch one, rap, and then climb Vistacruiser, 5.7. |
By Anonymous Coward
May 20, 2005
| Lame. The off-width is the BEST part of this climb. |
By kBobby
From: Spokane, WA
May 20, 2005
rating: 5.9
| Cool. I'll try it next time. |
By Jimbo
Mar 8, 2006
| After you do the first two pitches, which can and should be led as one, there is a straight up variation that starts off the left side of the big ledge. It's 5.10 and a fun finish if you done the standard finish before.
Look for a few bolts up and out left when your standing on the big ledge. |
By Christian
From: Tucson, Az
Jun 20, 2006
rating: 5.9
| What's the belay situation at the top of this climb? Gear, sling blocks or trees, cold shuts?
Thanks |
By kBobby
From: Spokane, WA
Jun 22, 2006
rating: 5.9
| If I remember correctly, it is bolts. I think there are in fact two sets of bolts on this one. But you can double check as you approach, because you walk right past the top of the route. The top is at the same level as the parking area and the approach trail. |
By 1Eric Rhicard
Jun 24, 2006
| Actually you have to walk a couple of hundred feet past the descent for this route to find the belay bolts at the top of this cliff |
By joshf
From: missoula, mt
Oct 25, 2007
rating: 5.9
| the first pitch is great for a first aid climb. you have to do the last move free but theres a giant horn. its a good thing the pro is awesome the whole way up because a 5.8 trad leader might get thrashed on this. |
By ryan dillon
From: Tucson, AZ.
May 21, 2010
rating: 5.8+
| An awesome line if you run it all together. Not many of these types of routes on Lemmon. |
By ryan dillon
From: Tucson, AZ.
Jul 27, 2010
rating: 5.8+
| Found a rope bag at the base of this climb. Get back to me with the description and it shall be returned. |
By david krivan
From: truckee
Apr 2, 2012
| I thought getting into the offwidth felt very insecure. There is a great hand jam but you cannot reach it at first. Your last gear in the hand/finger cracks is a ways down at this point. I liked clipping a belay anchor and extending it with a double plus single shoulder. I extended my gear with shoulders in the crack, and clipped the rope directly to my camalots in the offwidth, and felt rope drag was manageable. awesome climbing, in your face at times. Solid 9 is totally fair for this one. |
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