Stemming Route 5.7
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| Type: | TR, 1 pitch, 35 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.6 [details] |
| FA: | |
| Submitted By: | Nic Hoggan on Oct 16, 2011 |
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BETA PHOTO: Routes in the center of the crag. Photo credit goe...
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Description Located just to the right of Overhanging One (5.10a). Very fun stemming and crack moves.
Protection Top rope only, unless someone wants to figure out some trad placements (I don't). Shares bolted anchors (no chains) with Arete (5.8) to the right.
| Comments on Stemming Route |
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By Alex Loomis
Oct 30, 2011
rating: 5.6 PG13
| Goes on gear pretty easily, sews up with medium-large cams, feels more like 5.6 so if you have a set of singles and don't mind running it out a tad you should have no problems. You can also probably reach around to the arete route if you are stemming instead of climbing the crack and clip one of the bolts if you really want to. |
By Parker Alec Cross
From: Provo, UT
Jul 2, 2012
rating: 5.6
| I used four pieces on lead for this route, nothing bigger than a #2 Camalot, but I did also use a .4 BD, and each placement was pretty bomber. The 1st piece is a #1 BD (or similar size) at about the same level as the first bolt of the other sport routes on the wall. From there the placements aren't hard, but the flaring crack will make you be a little creative. I didn't find the runouts to be anything to worry about.
I'd also say this one feels more like 5.6. There wasn't anything even remotely hard about this route. That being said, bring your rack to Oahu if you have space in your luggage, because lacing up this route in this location is absolutely spectacular. |
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