Crux pitch with great stemming! Photo courtesy of...
P1 5.8 face and slab past some gear and two bolts to a two bolt anchor beow the groove/crack. 110' P2 5.9 flaring crack and groove climbing for 80' to easier ground to a two bolt anchor below a hanging block. 140' P3 more 5.9 groove past two bolts to the next anchors...two bolts belay. 140' P4 the 5.10+ crux pitch pitch through the headwall utilizing the groove and face...many bolts...to a double bolt belay. 140' P5 5.8 groove to the Lost World Ledge. 110'
Rap the route.
Right of Oasis, left of Central Pillar
double cams, tricams, lots of draws for the crux pitch, two ropes.
Full disclaimer: I followed P1 which seemed harder than 5.8. Led P2 until 30' out from my last piece which was 30' above the belay with 20' to go with no visible pro...it had been a long, hot day and I must have missed something on the second pitch...a downclimb ensued. Posted this route as it has a positive reputation and wanted others' opinions....what did I do wrong?
I'm told this is the route Tyler and I did last year. I led the first and third. The first seemed more like 10A, 5.9 R. The second pitch was runout, but a set of wild country offset cams tamed it somewhat. Tyler was talking to me. I found this pitch to be an awkward 10 A or B. I didn't lead but probably still R with the offsets. I went most of the way up the third pitch and then down-climbed. I was a bit numb after the upper pitches of oasis, and the third pitch groove seemed hard (10+) and runout. Interesting to see the last pitch is well bolted. Considering the difficulty we faced on the rest of he route, I'd guess it is well bolted for good reason--perhaps the same party grading this as the crux pitch of upper Oasis?
P1 is definitely 5.8. Make sure you get gear before the bolt, small tcu.
P2 is not as runout as some may think. The flared groove took several tri-cams. I had a set of 6, black and navy blue and the set of four anodized pink to purple(.25-3). We also had a mix of the metolius and bd cams in the #1 C4 size and lower with singles up to #3 C4. There were several constriction in the crack that took cams nicely in between the tri-cams placements. If you want more specifics email me.
P3 now this is a runout pitch. There are several sections of hard groove climbing well above gear, but the hardest groove move is protected well by a bolt. You just don't ever want to leave that ledge!
P4 this is severely runout off the belay. No gear until that 1st bolt, which is ~30' off the belay with a technical move to get to it! The next section is hard to call 10+, maybe 10++++... Felt this was sandbagged and the bolts were too far off the climbing line to the right (possibly rap bolted or bolt-laddered?). Once your clipping, the falls are pretty safe with a healthy swing. This pitch was just too sustained, technical, and difficult for us. Got tired of swinging out so we bailed off the fourth bolt. Probably could have aided through. Good luck!
Finally got to climb the 4th ptich last Saturday. Fantastic route! I agree with Tommy about the crux pitch, 5.10++. The 2nd and 3rd bolts are hard to clip. I'm not tall but I was glad I wasn't any shorter.
I really like variety of moves on the 2nd pitch and found it's the one with the most pro and far from runout. Here's the gear I got pretty much equally spaced throughout the pitch: .4 C4, #4 C4 in horizontal ant next stance, #1 C4, #1 C3, yellow alien, 12 or 13 BD stopper, two #2 C4s, another #1 C4 and two #3 C4s. Some of the gear isn't obvious, but it's all there and quite bomber. (no offsets or tricams)
Finally did that crux pitch yesterday - classic pitch for sure! Definitely the best pitch of the route, but not harder than 10+, especially when compared to other lines at Laurel. Note regarding the reachy clips: several of the re-placed bolts were positioned right of the old ones making it even more of a reach - but still not too bad. Would've been good if they'd been moved a few inches to the left instead (where the climbing is).