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Stemasaurus 

Stemasaurus 

YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, TR, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Dave Field and Ernie Moskovics, 1994
Page Views: 262
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Jan 9, 2002
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Description 

Stemasaurus climbs up the right side of the wall to a ledge just below the right-facing corner system. It is tweaky to start and tricky to finish. Hanson gives Stemasaurus 12b; however, my bet is that the corner really goes as 12a. Getting established in the corner is hard, but it is largely a muscle move that uses the corner to get the feet high enough to establish a "stem". This is not a clean Vertigo type of stem, but an awkward, crunched up thing that is part stem, part layback. Good route with good continuity, and arguably the best line in this section.


Protection 

Four draws and a rope. This line has only one bolt at the top for an anchor. One can top out and shift over to the RCA anchor to set up a sling-shot.



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By Tzilla Rapdrilla
Mar 8, 2010

The top anchor was recently upgraded, so now this route should be safe to lower off or top rope. Previously there was only one top anchor and that wasn't the most bomber installation around.

Despite the documentation that exists here and elsewhere, I suspect that this route may have never had an ascent on lead, or maybe even on top rope. Getting into the corner is waaaaay harder than 12a or b and it doesn't appear that any holds have broken. This would be a great route for someone to jump on and see what the grade really is, any boulderers out there? The pocket by the 4th bolt may need to have the moss cleaned out, so bring a toothbrush along.

By Ernie Moskovics
Sep 7, 2012

FA: Spring, 1994 by Dave Field and Ernie Moskovics. This route was rap drilled and led by both of us. At the time, we gave it 11+. Maybe a hold broke off, remember this is Castlewood. That's the documentation for this route, sorry if somebody got spanked.

By Tzilla Rapdrilla
Sep 10, 2012

Also, there's now a 2-bolt top anchor courtesy of ARI from our efforts of a couple of years ago, originally there was only one bolt on top. Something definitely could've broken maybe years ago & then the rock weathered a bit, it could be harder than originally thought, or I may not have figured out the proper contortion to get established in the stem. It should be a reasonable lead or fun TR project now though.