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 ADVANCED
The Bastille - W Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Blind Faith T 
Breakfast in Bed T 
Bridge-it Bardot (aka Hat Trick) T 
Chance of Rain T,TR 
Cream T 
Hair City T 
Implied Consent T,TR 
Let Them Eat Cake T 
Neon Lights T 
New Chautauqua T 
Out to Lunge T 
Out to Lunge ... with Dessert T 
Rain T 
Serengeti Spaghetti T 
Stem Gem T 
Sunset Boulevard S 
Sunshine Daydream T 
Voodoo T 
West Arete T 
West Buttress T 
West Face [Bastille] T 
West Side aka West Chimney T 
Your Mother S 

Stem Gem 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Alex Shainman, Spring 2000
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,027
Submitted By: Alex Shainman on Aug 28, 2001

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BETA PHOTO: Stem Gem crux section

Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

20 feet of tricky stemming and palming is the business on this obscure, yet obvious, corner on the West Face of The Bastille. Directly left of the crux of Blind Faith and right of the OW on West Chimney is a right-facing, right-leaning, short corner. Start up the wide crack of Blind Faith and solo (sparse pro) left to the bottom of the dihedral on loose rock (5.6). Stem up the corner using good body language, with good pro! Exit the top of the corner on the left and run it out to the ledge on slightly loose flakes (5.6+).

In all, 3 star moves on 20' of good rock separated by choss.... Fun nevertheless and it goes to show you can't leave any rock unturned.

This route can be led onsight by a competent climber.

  • It is quite possible that this is a line that Eric Doub top-roped in the late 70s.

Protection 

Small TCUs/Aliens, sm/med wireds, #1.5 + #2 Friends.


Photos of Stem Gem Slideshow Add Photo
the dihedral left of the crux on Blind Faith ->  Stem Gem
BETA PHOTO: the dihedral left of the crux on Blind Faith ->...

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By Joshua Merriam
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 15, 2007

Did this on a TR to check it out. The crux for me involved a single digit first knuckle jam to surmount the dihedral. Interesting.

my Gear beta: BD .75, 2 x #4 stoppers, #8 stopper, and slung flake
(plus whatever gear you prefer to reach the start of the dihedral on easy but runnout terrain)