Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Stem Gem Boulder
Select Route:
Stem Gem 

Stem Gem 

Hueco: V4 Font: 6B

   
Type:  Boulder, 20'
Consensus:  Hueco: V4 Font: 6B [details]
FA: John Bachar
Page Views: 7,561
Submitted By: RTM on Feb 2, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (41)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Steve Schneider, Banny Root and Mike Paul having f...

Description 

Located in a small group of campsites on the Southern end of the Blob formation. Please ask permission for bouldering in occupied campsites.

Stem Gem is the Quintessencial JTree boulder problem, embodying the essence of Joshua Tree climbing: Highly technical and often times perplexing movement across extremely friction dependant, featurless granite. Indeed, this problem has nary a hold on it, the only thing making it climbable is its coarse friction and the undulating nature of the stone.

Getting both feet off the ground on this problem can be an event in itself, bringing ones flexability and stemming prowess to task. Start by stemming up the concave face and then traversing right across a faint/blunt arete. Most continue right and stand on the "bump", however it is possible to avoid the bump and friction direct (v3 friction in itself), continue up the water groove and to the top of the boulder. Jump across boulder to get off.

Protection 

standard bouldering gear


Photos of Stem Gem Slideshow Add Photo
Emily Craft on Stem Gem <br />
Emily Craft on Stem Gem
Banny Root on Stem Gem
Banny Root on Stem Gem
Goofing off on Stem Jem.  I almost sent this problem backwards.  Now I just need to ditch the shoes and get a ukelele!
Goofing off on Stem Jem. I almost sent this probl...
Moving onto the finishing slab of Stem Gem (V4), Joshua Tree NP
Moving onto the finishing slab of Stem Gem (V4), J...
Steven Powers on stem gem, photo Kevin Calvert
Steven Powers on stem gem, photo Kevin Calvert
Extremo Terveeno sending the gem...
Extremo Terveeno sending the gem...
Pic. Credits to Dan
Pic. Credits to Dan
Duke on Stem Gem
Duke on Stem Gem
Tavis tries not to grease off the slippery smears post-crux on Stem Gem. Weight back over your feet! Joshua Tree, 2005
Tavis tries not to grease off the slippery smears ...
Stem Gem backwards, AKA MEGMETS, <br />Very early ascent:) <br />Mike Fogarty Collection <br />
Stem Gem backwards, AKA MEGMETS,
Very early ascent...

Comments on Stem Gem Add Comment
Show which comments
By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
Jul 28, 2006

Hard.
By David Aguasca!
From: New York
Apr 30, 2010

I onsighted this twice in one day!
By camtron
From: Huntington Beach, Ca
Jan 10, 2012

The starting foot dish is getting crumbly. It seems like this area of the rock has changed a lot since its first ascent. Looking at the old photos of the rock you will notice the 3 slashes are not present.
By A.Javi.Gecko
From: San Diego, CA
Dec 27, 2012
rating: V4 6B

The lessons I learned from Stem Gem:

1) Get up at dawn when friction is good

2) trust the ball bearings.

3) One quartz crystal can make all the difference. Literally. I sent by smedging on a single crystal.

4) Palm-friction saves the day.

Also, according to this:
fishproducts.com/powerandrubbe...

Stem Gem is V2... WTF?
By Robbie Brown
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Mar 14, 2013

you can't onsight something twice bro