|Stem Gem Boulder
|Type: ||Boulder, 20'|
|Consensus: || Hueco: V4 Font: 6B [details]|
|FA: ||John Bachar|
|Page Views: ||6,789|
|Submitted By: ||RTM on Feb 2, 2003|
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Steve Schneider, Banny Root and Mike Paul having f...
Located in a small group of campsites on the Southern end of the Blob formation. Please ask permission for bouldering in occupied campsites.
Stem Gem is the Quintessencial JTree boulder problem, embodying the essence of Joshua Tree climbing: Highly technical and often times perplexing movement across extremely friction dependant, featurless granite. Indeed, this problem has nary a hold on it, the only thing making it climbable is its coarse friction and the undulating nature of the stone.
Getting both feet off the ground on this problem can be an event in itself, bringing ones flexability and stemming prowess to task. Start by stemming up the concave face and then traversing right across a faint/blunt arete. Most continue right and stand on the "bump", however it is possible to avoid the bump and friction direct (v3 friction in itself), continue up the water groove and to the top of the boulder. Jump across boulder to get off.
standard bouldering gear
|By David Aguasca!|
From: New York
Apr 30, 2010
I onsighted this twice in one day!
From: Huntington Beach, Ca
Jan 10, 2012
The starting foot dish is getting crumbly. It seems like this area of the rock has changed a lot since its first ascent. Looking at the old photos of the rock you will notice the 3 slashes are not present.
From: San Diego, CA
Dec 27, 2012
rating: V4 6B
The lessons I learned from Stem Gem:
1) Get up at dawn when friction is good
2) trust the ball bearings.
3) One quartz crystal can make all the difference. Literally. I sent by smedging on a single crystal.
4) Palm-friction saves the day.
Also, according to this:
Stem Gem is V2... WTF?
|By Robbie Brown|
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Mar 14, 2013
you can't onsight something twice bro