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 ADVANCED
The Citadel
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Arch Rival T 
Clem's Folly T 
Finger Breakers TR 
Finger Zinger S 
Glad We Came S 
Iron Worker T 
Murray's Crack T 
Nose, The T 
Second Thoughts T 
Stem Cell Research T 
Styx n Stones T 
West Ridge T 
Wish You Were Here T 

Stem Cell Research 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 130'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Steve Roach
Page Views: 223
Submitted By: Jorge Achata on Oct 7, 2013

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BETA PHOTO: Stem Cell Research, the crack as seen from the beg...

Description 

A moderate off-width and chimney line starting ten feet left of Murray's Crack. It looks harder than what it is from the ground, but it is still very real up there. Getting established in the crack is not difficult (5.7-5.8), with one new bolt protecting the first 20 feet. Past that, there are placements deeper inside the crack and as you go up there's a chock stone that can be used for protection as well.

Two finishes are possible at the top of the chimney:

- The original route does a short traverse left following a well-protected crack. The crux is about 85 feet up, where you come out of the off-width and around a corner to head left. Anchors can be set up with gear by the time the crack goes horizontal.

- A variation is going straight up through a short crack followed by unprotected face climbing.

Location 

North face of The citadel. Start the large off-width immediately left of Murray's Crack. Descent is by traversing west over a low grade slabby face with great holds but more marginal protection. Treat the traverse as you would a full pitch and descend from the 1/2 inch bolts over Finger Zinger. Descend with a 70 m rope or two 60 m ropes.

Protection 

One 1/2 inch bolt (2013), full rack. Large cams for the off-width and/or medium size pieces for the features inside the crack. Smaller pieces for the anchors and for the traverse towards the bolts of Finger Zinger.


Photos of Stem Cell Research Slideshow Add Photo
The starts of Stem Cell Research and Murray's Crac...
BETA PHOTO: The starts of Stem Cell Research and Murray's Crac...

Comments on Stem Cell Research Add Comment
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By Marta Reece
Administrator
From: Las Cruces, NM
Oct 8, 2013

I have rapped off the Finger Zinger bolts on a single 70m rope.
By Jorge Achata
From: Lima, Peru
Nov 16, 2013

Tanks for the info, I added that in the description. I top roped finger zinger with two 60 m ropes. I learned to carry two belay devices now for that kind of set up :)