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Stem Cell Research
5.10b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 2.3 from 3
votes
Routes in The Citadel
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Anticipation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Arch Rival T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Best Forgotten Art T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Clem's Folly T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Finger Breakers TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Finger Zinger S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Glad We Came S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Hercamur Snurd T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Iron Worker T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Little Diddle T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Murray's Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Nose, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Romper Room T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Second Thoughts T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Stem Cell Research T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Styx n Stones T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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West Ridge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Whole Banana T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Wish You Were Here T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Trad, 130 ft (39 m) |
| FA: | Steve Roach |
| Page Views: | 1,049 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Jorge Achata on Oct 7, 2013 |
| Admins: | Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown |
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Description
A moderate off-width and chimney line starting ten feet left of Murray's Crack. It looks harder than what it is from the ground, but it is still very real up there. Getting established in the crack is not difficult (5.7-5.8), with one new bolt protecting the first 20 feet. Past that, there are placements deeper inside the crack and as you go up there's a chock stone that can be used for protection as well.
Two finishes are possible at the top of the chimney:
- The original route does a short traverse left following a well-protected crack. The crux is about 85 feet up, where you come out of the off-width and around a corner to head left. Anchors can be set up with gear by the time the crack goes horizontal.
- A variation is going straight up through a short crack followed by unprotected face climbing.
Two finishes are possible at the top of the chimney:
- The original route does a short traverse left following a well-protected crack. The crux is about 85 feet up, where you come out of the off-width and around a corner to head left. Anchors can be set up with gear by the time the crack goes horizontal.
- A variation is going straight up through a short crack followed by unprotected face climbing.
Location
North face of The citadel. Start the large off-width immediately left of Murray's Crack. Descent is by traversing west over a low grade slabby face with great holds but more marginal protection. Treat the traverse as you would a full pitch and descend from the 1/2 inch bolts over Finger Zinger. Descend with a 70 m rope or two 60 m ropes.
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