A steep, blocky start leads to more civilized climbing along a finger crack, which finishes at the ledge below the right side of the roof. Exit right around the roof, past the precarious-looking flat rock.
On the Redneck Wall, on your way from the Island toward Boobs. Look for a ledge with a roof above it at the top of the wall. On the right side of the roof, there is a flat boulder wedged at an angle. The climb starts under the right end of the roof.
standard rack, long slings for toproping
|By Zolen Boogaerts|
Feb 22, 2014
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b
There is absolutely NO WAY this route is a 5.8. I would call it 5.6, maybe easy 5.7. Posey's Pass (5.6) around the corner is harder. The Flake (5.8, but really 5.9) around the corner is on a different planet than this route. Regardless, it's a favorite of mine. Great route.