Steep is Flat  M5-6

400 page views Good page?

Type:  Trad, Mixed, Alpine, 4 pitches, 500 feet, Grade III Consensus:  M5-6 [details] FA:  JD Merritt and Erik Rieger New Route:  Yes Submitted By:  erik rieger on Mar 8, 2013 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

The approach couloir.

Add Photo  Add Comment    Printer View

Description 

This route climbs four pitches on the steep upper wall of Flattop's southeast face.

To reach the climbing, ascend 1000' or so of easy snow and some moderate rock from the lake until you're high in a narrow couloir. The couloir continues up and right whereas this line breaks left onto a steep wall below a large, obvious chockstone.

Pitch 1: Climb past the chockstone on the left, then trend up through snowy ledges interspersed with harder moves toward the arete. Surmount the arete with great exposure, using face holds to pull onto an angled ledge (35m, M5).

Pitch 2: Rocky-Mountain ice pitch. Climb straight up from the belay toward a large corner system swinging into a smattering of steep frozen turf and ice. Pull over a steep chockstone and continue up a chimney (30m, M4).

Pitch 3: Continue straight up the right-facing corner and chimney system, pulling two steep overhangs with good gear (30m, M5/6).

Pitch 4: Continue up the chimney and over a bulge to the summit (30m, M4/5).

With good rope management, it would be possible to do the route in three pitches. Beware of loose rock and large snow mushrooms (depending on the time of year), which may require tunneling.

Location 

Choose your own adventure to reach the narrow couloir below the center of the headwall on the southeast face.

Protection 

Standard winter rack.

Photos of Steep is Flat Slideshow

Add Photo

Pitch 1.	Pitch 3 crux.	BETA PHOTO: Here is our line in purple. A direct-start variat...