Steep is Flat
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|Type: ||Trad, Mixed, Alpine, 4 pitches, 500', Grade III|
|Consensus: ||M5-6 [details]|
|FA: ||JD Merritt and Erik Rieger|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Submitted By: ||erik rieger on Mar 8, 2013|
The approach couloir.
This route climbs four pitches on the unassuming steep upper-wall of Flattop's southeast face. It makes for a good winter climb, especially in poor or cold weather.
To reach the climbing, gain 1,000' or so via easy snow and some moderate rock from the lake until you're high in a narrow couloir. The couloir continues up and right whereas this line breaks left onto a steep wall below a large, obvious chockstone to gain the prominent chimney system slicing the center of the face.
Pitch 1: Climb past the chockstone on the left, then trend up through snowy ledges interspersed with harder moves toward the arete. Surmount the arete with great exposure, using face holds to pull onto an angled ledge (35m, M5).
Pitch 2: Rocky-Mountain ice pitch. Climb straight up from the belay toward a large corner system swinging into a smattering of steep frozen turf and ice. Pull over a steep chockstone and continue up a snowy chimney (30m, M4).
Pitch 3: Continue straight up the sustained right-facing corner and chimney system, pulling two steep sections with good gear (30m, M5/6).
Pitch 4: Continue up the chimney and over a bulge and climb an easy slope to the summit (30m, M4/5).
With good rope management, it would be possible to do the route in three pitches. Be ready to handle loose rock and large snow mushrooms (which required tunneling and care).
Descend the Flattop trail.
Choose your own adventure to reach the narrow couloir below the center of the headwall on the southeast face.
Standard winter rack.
BETA PHOTO: Here is our line in purple. A direct-start variat...
Pretty awesome couloir climbing on the approach.
You're aiming for this steep wall up and left.
Pitch 3, looking up the corner system.
|Comments on Steep is Flat
Mar 13, 2013
Did this route last year with different variations.... Great winter mountain route.... Almost better that the old route....
|By erik rieger|
From: Boulder, CO
Mar 14, 2013
Could you elaborate a bit more? Once the first pitch is done, you're tunneled into a large chimney/corner system, and you'd have to try really hard to break from the line. So I'm a bit confused how you could climb the same route "differently." If you've done it, that's cool, I'll change the info. The climbing is steeper and more serious than the old route.