This route should be on the 5.12 NC climber's list. This groove is unique. The first half of the route climbs the apron and begins right of where the original Laurel Robbins (Have and Not Need) ascends the cliff. We maintained "the spirit of the area" by including mandatory run outs on moderate terrain.
P1 5.9 200' Go left at the first bolt, aim for an overlap with a hand crack. Climb straight up to a quartz hold (yellow C3), sling a hold, clip 2 bolts then run it waaay out to the Fathom Direct bolt located above the dike and a bit right of the groove. Run it out to the anchor.
P2 5.10 200' Step left and enjoy the awesome features as you run it out to the first bolt. Pass a crack, and eventually a couple bolts. Above the 3rd bolt look left and go clip (48" runner) the first of the 4 bolts that this route shares with Laurel Robbins / Have and Not Need. Stretch the rope to reach the anchor.
P3 5.12 135' Climb straight up to a hole. Climb up to another hole, then clip. Continue up the groove past some bolts. The 4th is a Fathom bolt. A high nut protects you clipping the 5th bolt. Climb out the bulge and enter the groove. This technical and steep section of the route is superb. Two bolt anchor in the teacup.
P4 5.10 160' Climb over the bolt protected bulge using fun compression paired with a high step or two, then continue up the arcing groove using spaced natural protection to the 2 bolt belay on the comfortable and spacious Mossy Mouse Ledge.
P5 5.12 50' Crux pitch, short & sweet. Boulder your way on up past the 2nd bolt. Find the 'crucial crystal' and then fire the wild crux. The stance and third bolt is higher than I wanted. This short pitch packs a bit of a bouldery punch. 2 bolt anchor.
P6 5.11 190' 'Two Rivers Country' Climb over the right of the double grooved bulges via awesome technical moves. Then run it out over very easy terrain to the next bulge and clip a bolt up high. Surmount this bulge via powerful moves on good holds. Climb right of a cedar tree, and over one final bulge then up to a two bolt anchor.
Rappel the route.
Between Hone Ranger and Have and Not Need.
(2) #1 C3 - #3 C4
(1) #4 C4
(1) small finger size nuts
(2) 60m or 70m ropes (5' of simuling on P1&2 w 60s to share H&NN anchor)
BETA PHOTO: Joey Wolfe photo
BETA PHOTO: Topo overlay
Nathan Brown photo
photo credit Chris Wisenhunt
The FA team on P2
Photo credit Chris Wisenhunt
By burlap submariner
Jan 25, 2013
Just when I thought that the "escape hatch" was direct.....Nice work guys, what an amazing opportunity.