This is a great face line that is a mixed route. The first half is pure trad, and the second half is bolted where it needs to be. It is a sweet line on a beautiful face.
Approach as per the Arete Direct. Work straight up the middle of this beautiful, featured face to the mid-anchors, and follow three bolts to more gear placements and on to the top.
Standard rack with cams to 3". Bolts protect most of the second half of the route. This can be broken into 2 shorter pitches with the mid-way rap anchors.
|By Dave Carey|
From: Morrison, CO
Aug 4, 2014
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
I have been climbing plenty of trad and runout trad routes. If this climb is supposed to be on the face, there is no gear or at least gear I would trust on a fall. Perhaps it was supposed to be climbed in the chimney, but the face moves looked to great. I would say this is a TR route for now.