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By Evan1984
Aug 19, 2010

Forestvonsinkafinger wrote:
Allow me to clarify, I guide climbing trips for a University, we take 10 or so students at a time to crags for single pitch top roping and sport climbing. I once heard that it is a better ethic to set up a top rope on gear/trees when having rookies (who fall a lot on TR) on the line. Thus extending the life of the anchors, though very time consuming. Looking for opinions (I feel that using our own draws is fine, and that TR falls only weight the anchor, and as not a shock load are hardly detrimental). There are no certifications for guiding I hold beyond WFR and a BA in ORec and all other guiding I have done has been for hikes and backpacks.


You got razzed because being a "guide" typically means holding a AMGA rock cert or higher. No worries. Those Uni classes are awesome and where many people get their start. I used to work them when I was in college.

You should not worry about TR'ing off solid bolts in solid rock. Just run the rope through your own gear. The wear and tear of groups won't hurt it.

If you are at all suspect of the bolts, natural anchors/gear should be used.

There are no hard and fast rules, just good judgment. As a general rule, I'd say people who lack extensive trad/gear experience are better off using existing bolts or slinging natural features when available. The risk of misplaced gear outweighs the risk of suspect bolts in most cases.

You just need to evaluate the rock, the fixed gear, the gear potentials, and your competency and make the best decision for the situation.

Evan


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By Jeff Fiedler
Aug 19, 2010

Just to comment on the use of a revolver biner to minimize rope wear.

Don't do it. The point about a heavier climber pulling up a lighter belayer is not some theoretical, safety-weenie notion.

When I first started climbing, before I knew better, I climbed on a TR set up by someone with a pulley.

I weigh 200, and I pulled a 160 pound belayer clear to the top of the climb. Fast. We were both incredibly lucky he held onto the belay, and that we didn't hit each other.

Friction is your friend.


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