One of the best routes I've climbed at the grade. The climbing is not anything special by Rumney standards (because great 5.12s are easy to find), but the exposure gives it that extra something that makes it stand out as a super memorable climb. You also get the pleasure of climbing quality rock all the way to the top of one of Rumney's most beautiful cliffs.
Climb the first 2 pitches described for Via Ferrata (5.11c) this is fun all on its own, but keep going you will be happy you did.
From the ledge on top of pitch 2 of Via Ferrata step right off of the ledge and you will very quickly find yourself in quite an exposed position on a slightly overhanging face 100+ feet off of the ground. Follow the bolts straight up the face. First the climbing is balancy and awkward leading to a section that is brutally crimpy, then a quick tricky move to jugs and a rest ledge. Look up at the anchors and navigate your way to them on 5.9 moves. Wow, look at the view. Tram your way back to the anchor. Now climb it again, I know you want to.
Start by climbing Via Ferrata (5.11c) or another route that will put you on the 2nd pitch belay from that route. Step to the right off of the ledge and climb straight up the slightly inverted face above to the top of the cliff.
7 bolts to anchor.
60m rope will get you to the ground from the 2nd pitch belay on Via Ferrata.
|By E thatcher|
From: Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
Nov 14, 2010
Another way to get to this route is via that Iron Man extension above Know Ethics. We climbed steal curtain from the Iron Man anchors and it worked pretty well, I think the belayer is able to see the climber much better this way. Either way, this climb is Awesome!
|By M Sprague|
From: New England
Mar 29, 2011
The way E Thatcher described is the way Jim originally did his ascent. I put the anchors in for Via Ferrata later, giving that option.
|By Eric Leclerc|
Aug 4, 2013
I just climbed this beautiful route today. Bad news everybody.
The best hold of the sustained middle part is gone. It popped in my hand while I was going for the last hold before the climb gets easier.
I don't know how much harder the grade will be. But my guess is probably 12c.
If anyone goes on it, please let me know how much it feels.