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Stealin 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Mike Argueso (1989)
Page Views: 1,776
Submitted By: susan peplow on Feb 6, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (44)
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Chris Trudeau working the moves on Stealin

Description 

Climb obvious bolt line using sidepulls and good edges up steep wall and over roof. Roof is protected by two bolts.


Location 

First route to the left of Valentine's Day Arete


Protection 

5 bolts plus anchor



Photos of Stealin Slideshow Add Photo
Back in the day, before Jay had his professor beard. Photo by Hillary Davis. Trivia: this is a brand-new shirt I bought Jay the night before, after some thug broke into his truck (in my driveway!) and stole all his clothes.
Back in the day, before Jay had his professor bear...
Paul Peterson.
Paul Peterson.
Nature working the pink point
Nature working the pink point
Chris pulling the roof
Chris pulling the roof
John Bachar on Stealin. I think this was around September or October 2008. What a pleasure it was to climb with John and Paola. We really miss him.
John Bachar on Stealin. I think this was around Se...
John Bachar on Stealin.  Martial Arts pants rolled to the knees, ultra light biners, super light harness with belay loop cut off, chalk bag with lining ripped out, something red and Acopa Merlin shoes. It didn't matter if it was 5.6 or 5.12, always the same.
John Bachar on Stealin. Martial Arts pants rolled...
Stealin <br />
Stealin
Comments on Stealin Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jan 9, 2014
By Braxtron
From: ...
Feb 6, 2007
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

Pumpy to the "room." Don't forget to clip the bolt above the "room" before departing it for the chains...

By joshf
From: missoula, mt
Oct 25, 2007
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

fun route...if only the roof stayed in the grade.

By Gerry Cook
From: Tucson, Arizona
Oct 23, 2008
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Here is a YouTube video of a local climber leading this route Stealin

By Dave K
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Feb 13, 2009

I love this route, and can't wait to do it again, but I find it hard to beleve that it's really 5.11a. After leading Community Service, a 10a, I feel like Stealin is more like a 10b... I mean, I'm stoked that I led it and all, but I'm not about to call myself an 11 leader. Stealin remains my hardest lead, and I'm stoked about having done it, but it feels easier than 11a to me.

That is all.

Kahler

By Christian
From: Casa do Cacete
Feb 13, 2009
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Damn you, people are always trying to downrate the handful of 11a climbs I've done :-)

Are the following also not 11a?

Steve's Arete - Hunchback Pinnacles
You Call It - The Ruins
Thunderbolts - Sky Valley
Mandatory Doug Testing - Murray Wall, Ravens
Myopic - Sun Spot Crags

Not that I'll listen to any of you, I can remain in denial forever... forever I tell ya!

By Jimbo
Feb 15, 2009

Not sure how anyone can think Stealin is only one letter grade harder than Community service??
Stealin always felt .11a to me.
Christian, all the other routes you listed are consensus .11a. So sleep well and don't dwell too much on numbers.

By Christian
From: Casa do Cacete
Feb 15, 2009
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Cool, now I can finally get some sleep hehe

By Chelsea Cook
Feb 23, 2009
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

I agree that those other routes (the ones I've been on) are 11a, but Stealin' is definitely easier than 11a and you know that because if I can lead it, it must be easier! haha. But seriously, what i've noticed is that people who are better at that style of climbing think it's way easier, and people who excel at other styles of climbing find it more challenging. I could be wrong about this, but it's my theory based on what people tell me about what they think of it. It's a great climb, though, and by far one of my favorites on the mountain- just wish it was longer!

By Christian
From: Casa do Cacete
Mar 18, 2009
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Maybe without all the chalk marks it would be 11a? Who knows?

Anyway, if you can lead "Stealin" you can definitely lead the one directly left of it, which is undoubtedly a stellar (though also short) climb. Still stuck hangdogging that one myself.

By Chelsea Cook
Apr 8, 2009
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

The one to the left is I've Been Robbed and I think it is significantly harder than Stealin! Good luck with it! I love that climb. I still need to get that one.

By John Hayes
From: Bend, OR
Sep 20, 2011
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

It may be my reach but Stealin feels like 10c to me. Totally fun 10c but still 10c...or d.

By Kemper Brightman
From: Tucson, AZ
Jan 9, 2014

Dam, who invited Team Downgrade to the party? Luckily it looks like we all agree its worth doing whether you call it a 10 or an 11. Give it a go and see for yourself!

By Charles Vernon
From: Tucson, AZ
Jan 9, 2014
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

I did. I think it's 10+ if you move a fair bit right by the 3rd bolt (on obvious chalked holds), which is what I have always done. I also think the unknown route 2 routes left (rated 5.10) is harder than Stealin.