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West Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
411 Southwest T 
A Bridge Too Far T 
Astro Glide S 
Avalon T 
Billie Bear Cranks the Rad T 
Bloodguard T 
Blotter is my Spotter T 
Brokedown Palace T 
Burning Down the House T 
Buster Cattlefield T 
California Dreaming T 
Carl's Face S 
Carol's Crack T 
Dead Point T 
Deadwood Express 
Deli Express T 
Digital Extraction T 
Double Feature T 
El Matador T 
Fractal T 
Harkness variation T 
Heatwave 
Jerry's Kids T 
La Vaca Solitaria T 
Lack of Enthusiasm S 
Livin' the Dream T 
Man Without a Planet T 
McCarthy West Face (Variant) T 
McCarthy West Face/Hong T 
Mr. Clean T 
Mystery Express S 
No Holds for Bonzo T 
One Way Sunset T 
Park Politics T 
Scottfree T 
Some Like it Hot T 
Spank The Monkey T 
Steal Away S 
Tulgey Wood T 
Up In Smoke T 
Way Layed T 
Wrong Way (direct start to One Way Sunset) T 

Steal Away 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Dave Rone, Kimi Harrison, Leslie Appling: August 6, 1992
Page Views: 213
Submitted By: Dave Rone on Jun 9, 2012

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Description 

Steal Away is a bolted face route that starts from the Southwest Buttress, a prominent ledge feature at the south end of the West Face. Climb up a small ramp to the right, and then meander up toward the overhang above. Step right and face climb(crux)past the overhang to a two-bolt anchor.

One can also climb directly through the overhang (bolts) and then traverse back onto the original route. This variation is called The Lander Girls, and is 5.12a.

The route consists of high quality, and somewhat sustained face climbing. Rock quality is very good and the protection is excellent. It was hoped that the route would continue higher but the rock quality deteriorated dramatically.

Location 

Steal Away is the 3rd crack to the left of the Direct Southwest route. You will see the bolts just to the right of the crack, and the small, right leaning ramp is easy to find.

You must climb a 120', 5.7 crack to the top of the Southwest Buttress to access the route. This crack will require a selection of medium stoppers and medium to large TCU's for gear. There is a two-bolt anchor at the top of this pitch.

Protection 

Protection is 11 bolts to a two-bolt belay/rappel station. Rappel back to the Southwest Buttress anchors, and then to the Southwest Shoulder.


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