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Great Tower
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Steak Sauce T 

Steak Sauce 

YDS: 5.12+ French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 27 British: E6 6b R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12+ French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: FA TR Pete Cleveland, FFA on lead Rich Bechler,Steve Sangdahl,Dale moir.
Season: Spring, summer, fall
Page Views: 1,621
Submitted By: JJ Schlick on Sep 14, 2006

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Vince pulling up into the roof.

Description 

A classic and fabled "roof problem" that probably gives no favors to shorter or taller climbers. The free climbing of this former aid route was unlocked by local legend Pete C. on TR a long time ago... The first bold leads of the line came from influential DLFAers Rich B. and Steve S.

Start at a seam below the obvious roof with a crack running through it. Thin moves will take you to a small bulge and a large hollow flake. The thing is pretty solid though, and on lead you are sticking wires in behind it. Some big moves through the roof to the jug is the crux boulder problem, and holding the swing was the most terrifying part on lead. if you blow it here you will get hurt no questions asked. I posted the route as R, though in reality it is probably closer to deserving an X, though future ascents will confirm this.


Location 

Great tower, East face.


Protection 

At least its a light rack! small wires, small cams, and a couple hand sized pieces for the top.



Photos of Steak Sauce Slideshow Add Photo
Vinny.
Vinny.
Vinny, grabbing the flake.
Vinny, grabbing the flake.
Vinny at the crux jam.
Vinny at the crux jam.
Comments on Steak Sauce Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Apr 6, 2012
By Alex A
Oct 19, 2005

12b is sandbag, have tried to do this climb for many years,evan with beta from Pete Cleveland, there are of 12d's that are easer at the lake.

By JJ Schlick
Administrator
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Aug 15, 2006

12b is a little on the sandy side. I think it all depends on how dynamic you want to climb the thing. I lead it in 97 with just a couple tries, and at the same time could do Bagatelle on command. I think 12c/d is probably pretty accurate. V6ish? But what do I know. Seth Dyer was kind and brave enough to give me a belay.

By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Campton, NH
Oct 11, 2006

This summer, I rapped down Steak Sauce to check out the gear. I found that the entire left side of the crack consists of an expando-type flake. It is entirely detached except for one small section. Others had told me that the flake was sketchy, but I didn't believe them until I looked at it for myself. I came to the conclusion that gear placed behind the flake would be dubious at best. Therefore. I think this climb deserves an R rating.

Does anyone have any info about this flake? Has anyone fallen on gear placed behind it?

By JJ Schlick
Administrator
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Oct 14, 2006

I had some good pieces below the flake, and some wires in the flake itself. I believe I took one small hang/fall on those wires in the flake. I will admit it is kind of spooky, but I can really only think of one .12 at DL that isn't. I sent it next try, sooo... I guess if you want to lead it, just be in good shape....Peace-

By Leo Hski
Jan 12, 2007

Beta from Cleveland? That adds at least three letter grades to the difficulty!

Pete C. is one of the great competitors of all time!

By Peter Schmitz
Jan 13, 2007

I led this on clean aid several years ago without hooks or iron mongery. It had very good gear. Small nuts down low (rp's) and small tcu's.

By Tradoholic
Aug 27, 2010

This felt stupid hard today, anyone have some good beta?

The flake did some mean flexing and a few seconds after letting go it could be heard adjusting itself. You fucking led this Jeremy! Sick.

By Remo
From: Madison, WI
Aug 31, 2010

I like this climb a lot! A very powerful crack climb.

By Burt Lindquist
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Aug 31, 2010

Tis a butt hard climb.... No feet at the crux to speak of.... some super technical moves to reach the square cut bottom edge of the upper easier hand jam. You get this climb and you feel pretty good. I could not imagine ever be able to lead this myself when attempting to complete it on TR.

By Steve Sangdahl
From: eldo sprngs,co
Jan 6, 2011

It would be nice if the fa info reflected the sequence...i.e.
f.a. on aid unknown aid climber
f.f.a. on tr Pete cleveland
f.f.a. on lead Rich bechler,Steve sangdahl,Dale moir.


This more acuratly reflects the history.
peace and f-nes ss

By Tom Mulholland
From: #1 Cheese Producing State!
Apr 2, 2012

This just feels impossible! Plus, that high RH finger lock is really painful.

By Remo
From: Madison, WI
Apr 2, 2012

"Wrich, Don't even twy it, my pinky still aint wright."- Pete Cleveland explaining to Dave Groth and Rich Bechler how painful the slot was on the FFA. I think they went up and sent it the next day. As told to me by Dave over beers.

By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
Apr 2, 2012

Remo, I really enjoyed your Pete Cleveland voice.

By Remo
From: Madison, WI
Apr 3, 2012

Thanks Andy. I actually got my story mixed up(must have been the beers). It was Rich and Dave telling me the story, and that was Rich's way of talking like Pete.

By Steve Sangdahl
From: eldo sprngs,co
Apr 4, 2012

Pete use to say the funny and damnedest things to us.
That must have been the 2nd time Pete told Old Rich Bechler to not even try it. The first time was when Rich ,Dale,and myself had tried toproping Steak sauce(Dave G was not present) At the time Pete use to let us bivy in his yard and get jacked.So we proceeded to ask him for his take on Steaksauce. Well he looked at us and declared in perfect Elmer Fudd speak...."You guys? Don't even bother. You'll never do it! It took me 10 years to toprope that climb and it wrecked my finger to boot!" Well the thing that stuck with us the most was "you'll never do it" (don't know if he was trying to motivate us...but I doubt it)
Anyway Rich pulls me aside and says"Steve we're not only gonna do it ,we're gonna lead it to boot" Game on. anyway next day Rich ,Dale and I toproped it and next weekend Rich and I both led it With Dale providing a trusty belay and his girlfreind lighting off bottle rockets each time we sent and then some(much to the consternation of the DNR who was patrolling tthe lake in a motorboat trying to figure out where the fireworks were coming from.Dave G. was not there for this episode. Peace and fuk-nes Steve Sangdahl

p.s. There is also the time Pete told us that nuts leave scars and all the holds are much larger now due to the hands and feet of many climbers,thus making all the climbs MUCH easier then when he did them....but thats another story

By Remo
From: Madison, WI
Apr 4, 2012

Thanks for filling in the blanks Steve. It's really great to hear the history behind a lot of these routes. The climbs themselves might be really good, but the stories behind them make them even better. Cheers.

By Steve Sangdahl
From: eldo sprngs,co
Apr 6, 2012

Remo, thanks...like ya say it makes some of the routes even better knowing the history of the first ascents and some of the stories that go with the climbs and the scene at DL.
Peace and fuknes....steve s.