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Short Wall - Right Side
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Steady Breeze 
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Toe Jam Express 
Up to Heaven 

Steady Breeze 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 30'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
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Page Views: 517
Submitted By: Blitzo on Jun 1, 2007
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BETA PHOTO: "Steady Breeze".
Photo by Blitzo.

Description 

This is the face to the right of "Toe Jam Express". Hard moves at the start lead to easier climbing.


Protection 

None, TR.



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By Tozankyaku
Apr 5, 2010
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b R

This hasn't been a 5.7 for a while, there are a few holds missing at the start. My friends and I jokingly call this route 7-Eleven I don't think I would give the missing hold moves an 11 but they certainly are not anywhere near a 5.7... lol great climbing above the start.

By Rodger Raubach
Oct 15, 2010
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c R

The guidebook rating is pretty far off; many climbers (Noobs?) complained while I was there that they couldn't do it--and that they were "solid on 5.7." So...I did the route and confirmed that there were maybe a couple of 5.8+/5.9- moves at the start but the rest was certainly 5.7.

By Justin Peacock
From: Denver, co
Jan 8, 2012
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a R

5.7 is a total sandbag for the start if you take it head on. There are some good crimps but they're THIN tip trashers and the rock is steep initially. 10a for the bottom, then 5.6-5.7 for the rest which is fun and straightforward. If this was a sport climb almost anywhere else it would be 10a. 5.7 is a little over the top sandbag, even for Josh.

By shelby beardslee
From: 29 Palms, CA
May 24, 2012

I agree with Justin. The bottom foot holds have been greased up a bit. Its a pretty tough start for 5.7.