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Clipping the draw before heading into the bouldery...
Like the Stay Puft Marshmallow Man
, this route has some squeeze to it but has its own distinct crux followed by some fun climbing to the top.
Start as for Jeckyll and Hyde
past the first bolt to the ledge. But instead of busting horizontally right to continue up Jeckyll and Hyde
, keep going straight up. Clip a high bolt and then boulder up and right to the arÍte and into the crux of the route. Clip a fixed cable draw and make a few more tough moves over the bulge. Enjoy easier climbing to one last steep section to the anchor.
Jun 25, 2012
fell while trying to find a hold to clip the fixed chain and almost hit the ledge below. best rehearsed on tr if this climb is at your red point limit.
By Jason Halladay
From: Los Alamos, NM
Dec 15, 2013
I hadn't been on this in a while, Jean, but after climbing it again this weekend I moved the third bolt up about 14 inches making it much safer going to the fixed cable draw. The third bolt is now a bit of a reachy clip to hang the draw but my 5'5" wife was able to hang it so it's not too bad.