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Black Magic
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Black Magic 
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Stay on the Porch 

Stay on the Porch 

YDS: 5.11c/d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c/d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Bill Boyle and Boone Speed
Page Views: 178
Submitted By: Perin Blanchard on Sep 30, 2011
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Kip Henrie nearing the top.

Photo by Jonathan Sco...
Located in a National Forest Fee Area MORE INFO >>>

Description 

A thin, perplexing start leads to some tenuous moves trending up and left to the third bolt.

From the third bolt head more-or-less straight up through an overhanging section with some good holds, and some-not-so-good holds. Getting up and past the fourth bolt is probably the crux; it requires some body-positioning trickery, and a bit of faith that holds are coming (it feels a wee bit exposed).

After the last bolt is a concentration-inducing runout to the chains.


Location 

Found on the downhill (left) side of the wall to the left of the Black Magic cave.

Just after starting up the hill on the wooden steps there is a left-facing dihedral with bolts along its left side, and at the top of the dihedral a bolt on the right side. This is not the route.

The route is the next bolt line left. The first two bolts trend slightly left; the third bolt, above a shallow ramp is farther left.

Note that this line shares the first three bolts with an .11c to the left.


Protection 

5 bolts and a 2-chain anchor.



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By KipHenrie
From: centerville, utah
Aug 18, 2012

2 cruxes. Past the second bolt is thin with an excruciating right hand side pull undercling thing with nubbins for feet. Then balance onto the ramp. The upper crux holds shallow pockets and obscure feet. I wish it had another bolt to the chains. Fun.