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 ADVANCED
Wall Of Tiers
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Diagonal Connection T 
First Time, The T 
Golden T 
Lowe Route T 
Native Utard T 
Panty Shield T 
Realization T 
Retriever S 
Shield, The T 
Soak It Insideher T 
Stay Free T 
Sword, The T 
Utahpia T 
Unsorted Routes:

Stay Free 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Fred Henion, summer 2001
Page Views: 152
Submitted By: Boissal on Jun 25, 2012

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Located in a National Forest Fee Area MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Stay Free is another one of Fred Henion's proud lines at the Wall of Tiers. In this case, the thing it stayed free of is bolts: sanity (fear?) dictated that only one fixed piece would be there to clip; for the rest, you're on your own.

Start your emancipation by bouldering up an easy section of horizontals that abruptly ends in a steep slab split by a hairline fracture. Stand on a table-size detached flake, realize you can play the bongo with this whole detached part of the route then blaze up the crack. You'll reach another solid section of horizontals where things start getting steeper. Fight the pump and make your way past large protruding blocks into an alcove left of the huge roof. Dump a couple solid cams, clip them with extra extra long runners and commit to the wild traverse onto the face. The position and exposure will make those decent horizontals feel like 1/4 pad crimps at best. Fortunately the lone bolt is there to assuage your fears. It's no time to relax though as there still is some exposed pumpy climbing to reach the anchor. A piece here and there help keep this section in the tolerable range.

No move felt like 11c but the exposed nature of the climbing compensates nicely.

High five if you free yourself from gravity.
Slow clap if you take the ride.

Location 

Stay Free tackles the line that leads to the left corner of the massive roof of the Shield Wall.
Look for a slab split by a perfect crack capped by the mother of all ceilings.

Protection 

One thank-Jeebus bolt above the roof.
Nuts and a single set of cams from tiny to #3 BD. #4 might go somewhere in there but who wants to carry the big guy that far?
One or two double length runner for the pieces that protect the roof extraction moves - or be ready to get rope dragged into the void.

Lower from the bolted anchors.


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